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KCUB 050053Z AUTO 00000KT 10SM CLR 24/12 A2990 RMK AO2
SLP124 T02390122 TSNO |
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Official time building my Vans RV-9A: 1893.84 hours.
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Building time for Firewall Forward: 114.5 hours.
Number of records for Firewall Forward: 39. |
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2010-09-01 |
Hours: 5 |
Category:
Firewall Forward
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1099
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Exhaust bracing installation |
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Wrestled with the exhaust bracing installation. With the cowling installed, I positioned the exhaust pipes even distances from the engine mount and the cowling. I slide the huge exhaust clamps up the pipes first, the I put spacers between the exhaust and the engine mount and secured temporarily with tie wraps. I removed the cowling and sat there for awhile trying to figure out how to proceed. I determined that I must get the cross member installed first. I positioned the exhaust pipe clamps on each side so the flat flange is faciing side up, then measured the distance between the two clamps' bolt holes. I cut enough off each SS tube piece so that the assembly fit. I had to use 3/4" spacers on each side to raise the cross member enough to clear the mixture cable. After the cross member was securely installed, I installed the two assemblies that attach to the engine sump bolts. These were too long to start with as well, so I removed the lower piece of SS tubing and cut off some to make it line up with the bolt holes in the exhaust pipe clamps. The real cuss was to get the washer and nut on these bolts. I used big pliers to squeeze the clamp together to get the bolt fastened. A better idea was brought up to me after I was done: use safety wire and safety wire pliers to squeeze the clamp together. Great idea Tom! I'll have to remember that when working on tough adel type clamps in the future.
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2010-08-31 |
Hours: 3.5 |
Category:
Firewall Forward
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1098
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Laid up some little squares of BID cloth on the inside lower corner of the bottom cowling between the vertical and horizontal hinges. This area needs shaving on the outside as it sticks out and does not form a nice transition from the cowling to the fuselage. I laid up 5 layers. After setting up, I trimmed the edge and sanded smooth and reinstalled the cowling on the airplane. It looks as though I will need to add a few more layers once I sand the corner even with the fuselage. Also installed the platenuts and screws in the cowl halves at the spinner.
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2010-08-29 |
Hours: 3.5 |
Category:
Firewall Forward
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1097
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Installed cowl ducts and hinge pin anchors |
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Sanded the areas of the cowl ducts and the upper cowling where they would bond together. Then mixed up some epoxy and painted the bonding areas on both the cowl ducts and the upper cowling, then clecoed the cowl ducts to the upper cowling, put the cowling back on the airplane to set up overnight. Also cut some hinge pieces to anchor the upper/lower cowling hinge pins to the front of the cowling per plans. I drilled holes through the firewall so the hinge pins will go through.
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2010-08-28 |
Hours: 4 |
Category:
Firewall Forward
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1096
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Epoxied the inside of the cowling halves |
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Mixed up a 50/50 solution of epoxy and acetone and painted the insides of the cowling halves with two coats. Each coat dried to touch in about two hours. I put the cowling back on the airplane to set up over night.
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2010-08-18 |
Hours: 2.5 |
Category:
Firewall Forward
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1095
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Did some tweeking on the lower cowling support bracket. Removed it and trimmed some excess metal off where it meets the engine mount gusset. It was easier getting the bracket back on without the lower cowling in place. I cut the bottom hinge pins to length and bent them to fit. To do this I first inserted the pins in the hinges and marked where they should bend, removed them and bent them with a hammer with the pin in the table vice. I also starting mulling over the installation of the inlet ducts. Looks like fun ahead!
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2010-08-16 |
Hours: 4.5 |
Category:
Firewall Forward
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1094
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Bottom cowling support bracket work |
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Managed to get the bottom cowling support bracket (or what ever it is called) assembled. This was like putting a puzzle together. The trickiest part is getting the bend correct on the part that connects to the engine mount gusset. Had to call it quits early, so I hope to finished this tomorrow.
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2010-08-15 |
Hours: 3 |
Category:
Firewall Forward
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1093
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Trimmed the extra fiberglass from the exhaust recess area so it is even with the rest of the bottom aft edge. Since my slot for the nose gear is wider, I had to make the pieces for the support structure from stock material. Not much to show for the time I spent today.
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2010-08-14 |
Hours: 4.5 |
Category:
Firewall Forward
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1092
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Riveted the hinges on the bottom cowling and installed oil access door |
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I finished up riveting the hinges today. I got all six hinge pieces riveted to the bottom cowling. I also installed the oil access door. Locating the door latch hardward on the cowling was a bit tricky. Not a lot of margin for placement as the aft one might interfere with the thicker part of the cowling if placed to far aft. Also, make sure to install the latches so the little butterfly handles are oriented fore to aft when latched to reduce drag.
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2010-08-13 |
Hours: 4 |
Category:
Firewall Forward
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1091
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Riveted the hinges on the upper cowling |
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Riveted the hinge pieces on the upper cowling. I mixed up some epoxy and microballoons to help secure the hinges. This was a little messy but not a bad task. Once I had all four hinges rivets on, I put the cowling back on the airplane to let it cure overnight.
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2010-08-11 |
Hours: 4 |
Category:
Firewall Forward
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1090
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Drilled upper cowling side hinges |
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Drilled the upper cowling side hinges. Also made new hinge pins for the lower cowling to firewall four hinge pieces. The ones I had were aluminum. I found two lengths of steel hinge pin and realized that the instructions said to use the steel ones, not the aluminum ones that came with the hinges. I think I am ready to start mixing epoxy and microballoons and do some riveting!
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2010-08-10 |
Hours: 4.5 |
Category:
Firewall Forward
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1089
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Lower cowling trimmed along the sides |
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Long hot day! I trimmed the flanges from the upper edge of the lower cowling. Checked the fit to the upper cowl and adjusted a few areas. The fit looks good. I drilled the hinges to the bottom cowling and ground out the area near the front so the hinge pins could be inserted. Drilling and clecoing the hinges took some thought. It goes from centered eye at the fore to eye above edge at the aft, so you have to consider edge distance when drilling the hinge as it changes from too high to too low fore to aft. I marked a line along the edge of the lower cowling fore to aft about 23/64". This allow my best chance to stay within edge distance as I drilled the hinge from aft to fore. I also riveted in a short piece of mock hinge on each side of the fuse/firewall above the hinge that joins the upper and lower cowls and up to where the side and top skins join. This will keep the cowling in that area from being pushed. I used an .020 shim and some .040 to mimic the hinge for this. The pieces only covered three rivets, so they were only about 2 3/4" long.
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2010-08-09 |
Hours: 4.5 |
Category:
Firewall Forward
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1088
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Moving right along on the cowling |
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A long productive day. I got the lower cowling aft edges trimmed to fit, then riveted on the bottom and side hinges. I used a strap clamp to hold the upper and lower cowling halves together nice and tight while working at this stage. I drilled and clecoed the upper cowl hinge rivet holes. I marked the cut line along the upper and lower cowling overlap fore and aft trim line. Everything is drilled and clecoed except the fore to aft hinges that connect the upper and lower halves. I removed the 1/4 plexiglass spacer from between the upper cowling and spinner to see the result. It is really tight! About 1/8", so I was surprised that it didn't come out to the 1/4" space that I thought I was building into the set up. The space at the bottom is almost 5/16". I will wait until after I have the engine running to see if I need to work the spinner area of the cowling for a nicer fit.
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2010-08-08 |
Hours: 2.5 |
Category:
Firewall Forward
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1087
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Had to remove more material from the right side of the slot in the bottom because the nose gear leg is close on that side when the lower cowling was taped into place on the airplane. I cut the overlap material from the aft edge of the lower cowling to around the curve. Now only the sides need trimming at the aft edge. I think I'm getting close!
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2010-08-07 |
Hours: 3 |
Category:
Firewall Forward
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1086
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Upper and lower cowling fitting at the spinner |
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After talking with a few RV builders now flying about how to proceed with matching up the cowling halves at the spinner, I decided to just start hacking with the cutoff wheel. Yikes! I removed the front and interior flange at the spinner from the lower cowling, leaving only the flange that will hold the nutplates to hold the two halves together. After some other trimming, I got the halves clamped together, making sure they are on the same plane at the spinner, and drilled #40 holes and clecoed them together. After fitting on the airplane, it seems the lower cowling wants to pull the upper cowl off a bit - I thought I had it fitted perfectly. Plenty of tweaking still ahead.
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2010-08-06 |
Hours: 2 |
Category:
Firewall Forward
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1085
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Test fitted the lower cowling and marked the aft edge cut line - not alot of overlap to start with compared to the upper cowling. Had to cut another 1/4" of material from the right side of the nose gear slot as the cowling rubbed up against the nose gear leg when fitted into place. I have gotten the spinner area matched up on the two cowling halves yet. Need to do that to continue on.
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2010-08-05 |
Hours: 5 |
Category:
Firewall Forward
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1084
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Lower cowling hings installed on firewall |
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Installed the lower hinges on the firewall. Cut the slot in the lower cowling for the nose gear. Had to pretty much eyeball where the middle was to mark and cut the slot. After test fitting it to the airplane, I will have to cut about another 1/4" off the right side of the slot as the cowl rubs the gear leg as is. Still need to get the upper and lower cowlings to fit at the spinner.
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2010-08-04 |
Hours: 1.5 |
Category:
Firewall Forward
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1083
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Started on the lower cowling |
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Tried to modify the lower cowling to get it and the upper cowling to fit together at the spinner. Some modification will definitely be required. I removed the flange from the outer part of the air intakes to get the fit. Some material will have to be removed from the underside of the upper cowling to get them to fit together nicely. A lot more work to get this task done.
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2010-08-03 |
Hours: 2.5 |
Category:
Firewall Forward
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1082
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Got the upper cowling hinges done and trimmed the aft edge of the upper cowling |
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Got the two hinges along the upper cowling/top fuse skin done. Bevel the cowling hinge pieces and deburred them. Also trimmed the aft edges of the upper cowling to fit nicely. There is a 1/16 or less gap between the top fuse skin and the upper cowling to allow for paint.
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2010-08-02 |
Hours: 2 |
Category:
Firewall Forward
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1081
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Drilled and clecoed the upper cowling hinges |
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Drilled the upper cowling hinges to the fuse/firewall. Removed them and dimpled the .032 shims and countersunk the hinges.
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2010-07-31 |
Hours: 3.5 |
Category:
Firewall Forward
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1080
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I positioned the upper cowl to where it is level with the airplane, marked a few reference points so I could get it back into that position. I marked the aft cut line and cut that off with the cutoff wheel. Sanded the edge smooth. I drilled and clecoed the right side length of hinge along the top fuse/firewall.
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2010-07-30 |
Hours: 3 |
Category:
Firewall Forward
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1079
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Cut oil filler door hole in upper cowling |
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I cut the oil filler door opening in the upper cowling. Smoothed the edges first with a file, then will some really fine grain sand paper. Edges are as smooth as glass. Sized the oil filler door to fit and did some re-working on the hinge pieces to get them to fit better. I removed the aft tab on the cowl side hinge piece that I had left on their for more mounting area because it interferred with an area of thicker cowl nearby. Made some .040 shims for each hinge piece to help lower the profile of the hinge eyes. Did some more head scratching and studying before trimming the aft edge of the upper cowling. I want to make sure the upper cowl is level before marking the aft edges for trimming.
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2010-07-29 |
Hours: 3 |
Category:
Firewall Forward
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1078
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Marked the 2" line around the firewall on the top, sides, and bottom fuse skins. Cut the oil door to size and cut the hinge to fit. I marked the cowling for the oil door cutout. Placed the cowling on the airplane using the spacer tool Tom lent to me to get the proper 1/4" spacing between the cowling and the spinner aft bulkhead.
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2010-07-26 |
Hours: 2 |
Category:
Firewall Forward
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1077
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Assembled battery and ground cables |
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Assembled the positive terminal battery cable. Crimped the lugs on each end. Test fitted to the firewall. Not sure where I will anchor my negative cable yet, so I only put one lug on it so far.
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2010-07-21 |
Hours: 2.5 |
Category:
Firewall Forward
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1076
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More firewall forward tinkering |
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I think I have the Red Cube fuel flow transducer install, so now on to something else. I did a lot of head scratching and tinkering about, reading the manual and looking at the engine. A lot yet to do! I went ahead and torqued the exhaust pipe flange bolts. I do not think I will be removing the exhaust system again. I had to loosen the EGT sensor probe pipe clamps in order to get the socket on the nuts. I used a universal joint type extension to get to them and torqued them to 12.5 foot pounds. Next I safety wired the oil dip stick tube to the engine block. I pulled the throttle and mixture cables off the shelf and noticed some rubber boots on were cracking and splitting. Yikes! Shelf wear? I fellow builder told me not to worry about it, his fell off along time ago - not an issue. Still not cool though.
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2010-07-20 |
Hours: 2.5 |
Category:
Firewall Forward
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1075
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Finished a fuel hose and installed the tach sending unit |
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Installed the UMA tach sending unit into the left mag with the help of Ron Shelton - glad he dropped by! The thing is rather difficult to install and Ron helped unwind the wiring as I turned the wrench. Thanks Ron! Then I moved on to finish making the fuel hose that goes from the fuel pump to the Red Cube fuel flow transducer. I had to cut the fire sleeve a bit and re-dip that end, clamped it on with some Aeroquip clamps (ACS PN: 900591B-1C). Removed the exhaust pipes enough to place the carb heat muff onto the exhaust pipe. Other misc. tinkering as well.
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2010-07-17 |
Hours: 3.5 |
Category:
Firewall Forward
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1074
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I had to make my own fuel hose that goes from the fuel pump to the Red Cube fuel flow transducer. The length of SS braid (816) fuel hose was 8.875". Van's pre-made hoses are too long. As with anything else to do with the project, I was completely unknowledgable about doing this. So I delved in, bought the parts from Vans. I installed a fitting on one end of a length of SS braided fuel hose and installed this on the fuel pump fitting. I worked the fuel hose over to the Red Cube and marked a cut line. I wrapped masking tape around the fuel hose several layers nice and tight and centered on my cut line. I put this in the table vice, clamping only enough to hold the fuel hose snuggly and cut the fuel hose with the cutoff tool - the same one I cut the canopy with. The masking tape keeps all the SS braiding from getting out of control. I removed the tape and installed the other fitting. I cut a length of fire sleeve about 3/4" longer that the length I measure off the new fuel hose assembly. This will help accommodate the radius bend from the fuel pump to the Red Cube fuel flow transducer. To seal the ends of the fire sleeve so they will not soak up oil, fuel, and debris, I made a batch of dip: I filled a baby food jar half way with MEK (used air mask) and then squeezed in about a foot long drop of red high heat Permatex RTV. This was really experimental. I had to mix this for about 15 minutes to get all the RTV to dissolve into solution. The consistency was like tomato soup or perhaps slightly thicker. Once mixed I dipped the ends into the jar, swirling around gently and holding it in there for about 10 seconds or so to make sure the fiber lining in the fire sleeve soaked up ample dip solution. Once removed I let the excess drain out onto some card board with gentle shakes. I repeated the dipping process for the other end and let cure for about 45 minutes and then repeated the dipping process. This seems to have worked really well. The fire sleeve ends are sealed very well and there is enough flex to installed the fuel hose. I practiced clamping the ends with Aeroquip strap clamps but goofed them up, so I will order a couple more and get it done right.
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2010-07-13 |
Hours: 1.5 |
Category:
Firewall Forward
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1073
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More firewall forward work |
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Received the proper AN363 lock nuts from ACS along with a bunch of other supplies that I will need to get the FWF done: lots of adel clamps, AN3-3A, 4A, and 5A bolts, nuts, and washers, and the battery. I installed the battery into the battery box. Also installed the Red Cube bolts with the lock nuts and safety wired it. Seems like I am moving along slowly, but I sure am spending a lot of time researching and learning where FWF wiring and other things will go. I think it is time to start working on getting the cowling fitted.
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2010-07-11 |
Hours: 2 |
Category:
Firewall Forward
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1072
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Installed the Dynon EGT sensor probes |
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After pouring through as much info as a could find on how others have installed their EGT probes, I elected to install them two inches from the exhaust flanges. The right side two probes for cylinders 1 and 3, I angled the sensors about 30 degrees forward. With cylinder 1, the probe is on a curved portion of the exhaust pipe, but this cannot be avoid in any configuration on at least one of the cylinders. With the left side 2 and 4 cylinders, I angled the probes about 30 degrees aftward. To locate each hole, I used a spare hose clamp with a #40 hole drill in it on the center line of the band to use as a drill guide. I tapped each exhaust pipe through this guide at #40 and went back and enlarged them to 1/8" per Dynon's install guide, deburred, and put the probes in the holes and tightened the band clamps. On the curve pipe of the #1 cylinder, I located the hole a little lower so that the tip of the probe would end up 2" below the exhaust flange. It angles up, so if I had just marked a 2" location on the pipe and installed there, the probe tip, pointing at an upward angle, would end up 1/4" or more above the 2" mark.
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2010-07-10 |
Hours: 4.5 |
Category:
Firewall Forward
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1070
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Installed sensors and a bunch of head scrathing and thinking |
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Installed the CHT sensors, carb temp sensor and began working on getting the EGT sensors installed. This is a bit tricky as Dynon says to installed the EGT sensors between 2 and 8 inches from the exhaust flanges and all the same distance and on straight portions of the exhaust pipes. This situation does not exist on the Vetterman exhaust that satifies all four sensor positions. More research on this to come.
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2010-07-09 |
Hours: 4 |
Category:
Firewall Forward
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1069
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More firewall forward stuff |
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Got the Red Cube fuel flow transducer mounting bracket finalized and mounted on the firewall. I chose to stay with the thicker 3/16" angle since I already had it fitted. I added two more bolts to the firewall so that the bracket flange would be tight up against the firewall. With only the two bolts through the diagonal firewall stiffener, there was a gap in the corners of the bracket and the firewall that I was concerned might collect gunk or debris over time behind the angle bracket. Also drilled a lightening hole in the horizontal flange that the Red Cube sits on. I have AN363 stop nuts on order to use in place of the nylock nuts that are shown in the pictures.
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2010-07-06 |
Hours: 4 |
Category:
Firewall Forward
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1067
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Worked on installing the Red Cube fuel flow transducer |
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I haven't log time here in a while, but I have been spending hours mulling over the firewall forward installations. Today I worked on getting the Red Cube fuel flow transducer installed. I decided to mount the red cube on the left side of the firewall between the fuel pump and carb. The photo show a hefty 2.5 x 2 x 3/16" piece of angle - it's what I had on hand. The long "walrus tusk" bolts are just temporary while I wait for my shipment of parts. The angle mount bracket is attached to the firewall with two countersunk #10 screws through the firewall stiffener angle. I will put some lightening holes in the angle, or may replace it with some 1/8" angle that I have on order. This placement will require either a 45 or 90 AN fitting entering the red cube and a 45 degree fitting exiting the red cube. Also, the flow is just below the carb so I am adhering to the directions by not having the flow go down out of the red cube. I had first wanted to mount it above the gascolator but a few folks seemed unhappy with this. Inside the cockpit puts it on the wrong side of the of gascolator so I choose the location that some folks seem to think will work best for my set up. I am done with the fuel lines inside the cockpit, so I am not wanting to go back and redo a bunch of that to accomodate the red cube. Would have been nice to know that I would even have to install a fuel flow transducer a good while back, but that's kit building!
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2010-03-18 |
Hours: 1 |
Category:
Firewall Forward
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1033
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Painted the battery tray assembly |
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Painted the battery tray assembly and strap with some semi-gloss "Deluxe" black high heat paint. Probably overkill, but I needed some to touch up my BBQ grill at home.
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2010-03-16 |
Hours: 2.5 |
Category:
Firewall Forward
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1032
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More F-7127C retainer strap work |
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Got the lightening holes drilled in the F-7127C retainer strap using a unibit. I had to buy a new one because my old one gave out at the 1/2" drill - dulled out I suppose. Not bad after seven years. I primed all of the battery tray components and plan to paint them with some high temp black paint.
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2010-03-11 |
Hours: 3 |
Category:
Firewall Forward
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1031
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Finished battery box assembly, started F-7127C retainer strap |
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I did not like the tight, forced fit of the three F-7127 battery tray assembly bolts to the firewall. It took way too much force to get the bolts in and tightened. I removed the battery tray from the firewall, removed the three nutplates from the F-7127A side angles so I could see how the bolt holes line up with the firewall. The two left ones line up perfectly as I would have guessed. The right hole did not line up. It was off by about 1/16". Warning: match drill this hole; don't just removed the rivet from the firewall and hope it lines up. I had to wallow out some of the firewall/stiffener to get the bolt to fit. Seems to be okay. Also started fabricating the F-7127C retainer strap. I marked the centerline, drilled one of the bolt holes, then match drilled the other to the battery tray assembly. I cut the strap to length - mine was not exactly to the measurements on the DWG 31A, so do not cut the bar to length first, get your bolt holes drilled as I mentioned above, then cut to length. I marked and drilled pilot holes for the lightening holes. I tried one with a 3/4" holes saw - it's a little wild. I will use a unibit for the remaining ones. I also cut the radius on the corners of the strap with a 1/2" radius, using a 1" dia. hole template.
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2010-03-11 |
Hours: 4 |
Category:
Firewall Forward
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1030
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Worked on battery box assembly |
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Drilled and clecoed the F-7127A's to the battery box. I used a strip of .020 under the left one per plans as a shem to simulate the F-601K-1 firewall recess flange. Deburred everything, dimpled the battery box rivet holes, countersunk the F-7127A's and primed the exposed steel on everything. I had installed the nutplates but had to remove three of them while riveting the F-7127A's to the battery box because they were in the way. So, rivet the nutplates on last. I bolted the battery box assembly to the firewall. It was tough to get the bolts started as they do not line up perfectly with the holes in the firewall. It might have been better to match drill through the nutplates into the firewall, but I had earlier drilled out the rivets in the firewall and enlarged the holes to #12 for the AN3 bolts.
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2010-03-03 |
Hours: 1 |
Category:
Firewall Forward
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1029
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Installed master and starter relays and copper bar |
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I installed the master and starter relays, bolting them to the firewall. Then I cut to length and drilled the holes in the copper bar strips. After trying to fit the copper bar strips, I had to remove some flange material per the drawing from the lower left flange of the master relay. Then I reinstalled, tightened the copper strips on both the relays, then tightened the bolts on both relays to the firewall. I measured the centerline distance between both relay bolts to make sure of the length I needed to cut the copper strips. It is not exactly like on the drawing, so measure your actual situation before cutting and drilling the 5/16" holes. Drilling the holes was easy with the thinner unibit on my drill press.
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2009-10-27 |
Hours: 0 |
Category:
Firewall Forward
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1027
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So I leave Pam and baby at the hospital Tuesday morning to run some errands and do some paper work at home when I get a phone call from Peggy at the FBO. She said, "You have a shipment. There is an 18-wheeler here with an engine." I said, "Stall them, I'll be there in 15 minutes." And so I was out the door, running with no sleep. The FedEx delivery truck was parked on Jim Hamilton Blvd out in front of the FBO and the driver was sitting in the back on top of the engine box. LYCOMING was very visible from a good distance away! He helped me get it in the back of my pickup. I drove thru the gate and headed for my hangar. Uhhh...how am I going to get this engine out of the truck? Lucky for me, Xen, Jack and Allen were there and helped me slide it down a makeshift ramp of two 2x4's. And there the engine box sat in my hangar, glowing white. There was the great temptation to open it up, but I knew I needed to get back to the hospital so I would wait until another day to come open the box and ogle at the Lycoming blue engine. It's been a great week so far!
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2009-09-04 |
Hours: 1 |
Category:
Firewall Forward
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1018
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Finishing up slider canopy work |
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Countersunk the rivet holes where the C-666 aft skirts over lap the C-660 side skirts. Pondered over what else I need to do before I start disassembling everything to prep it for painting. Hopefully, I'll have some Jetflex here next week so I can get everything painted and reassembed.
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2009-09-03 |
Hours: 0 |
Category:
Firewall Forward
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1017
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My Sensenich FP prop arrived today. I think it may have survived its trip despite UPS delivery (Under Perpetual Stress, or United Parcel Service?) One end of the prop box was totally torn away and open. Yikes! I pulled the newspaper out of the end of the box and it looks like everything is intact. I will wait until I get it to the airport before opening the box to inspect the prop further.
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