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KCUB 292253Z AUTO 24003KT 10SM FEW055 35/22 A2988 RMK AO2
SLP113 T03500222 |
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Official building time: 1818.34 hours.
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Building time for Fuselage: 912.4 hours.
Number of records for Fuselage: 366. |
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2010-06-18 |
Hours: 2 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1066
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Finished fuel overflow, fitted alternator |
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Finished working on the fuel overflow line. It will have to come out again in order to install the cowling hinges to the firewall flanges. I installed the alternator to see how it fits. Lots of head scratching about all the firewall forward stuff. Ordered the Dynon Skyview engine module with probe kit and fuel transducer.
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2010-06-13 |
Hours: 3 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1065
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I adjusted the fittings on the VA-168 sender mount. I had to remove it from the firewall to do so. The fittings were aligned so when the lines where connected, they where too close to the firewall. I angled them slight forward and reinstalled. I removed the FF-705 oil breather tube again and took a little bend out of the upper bend. This allows the tube to sit down further at the bottom end. I am sure more adjustments will be needed once the exhaust system is in place. I started work on the fuel pump overflow drain tube. This requires the aluminum tube to be bent in a complex way so that it can exit through a #12 hole in the firewall flange/hinge.
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2010-06-12 |
Hours: 2.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1064
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Worked some more on installing the fuel hoses. Decided to test fit the exhaust system. Oil from the exhaust ports was a mess to deal with. About 1/8 cup from each one as you remove the plastic seal. Bent the FF-705 oil breather tube. Actually, I unbent some of the curve in the upper bend. This added some height to the tube and removed some of the excess "forwardness" so that I could get the breather port and the tube to line up and then put more bend in - more of a ninety degree bend now.
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2010-06-10 |
Hours: 2.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1063
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I tightened the four engine bolts and installed the cotter pins. This was a little bit tricky. The bolt have to be turned a certain was to be able to insert the cotter pin. Began to installed the FF-705 breather tube, but this looks like it will be a big challenge left to another day. Not sure how this is supposed to go in so I will have to look at someone else's installation first.
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2010-06-09 |
Hours: 2 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1062
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There was not any good pictures or anything helpful to get the carburetor installed. I removed the plastic square piece that was bolted to the bottom of the sump where the carburetor goes. About a cup of oil drained out. I stuffed a rolled up paper towel in the hole for a couple of hours to soak up most of the dripping oil. I bolted the bracket and carburetor. The next morning there was some oil still dripping out of the carburetor
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2010-06-08 |
Hours: 3.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1061
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Got to the airport a little early today and opened the engine box finally! I cut the open the sheet plastic sealing the engine and marveled at the "Lycoming blue" engine. I installed the VA-128 restrictor fitting in the oil pressure port, and the two oil cooler line fittings in the engine block. Once again, Tom Roberts was kind enough to help me - this time to install the engine on the airplane. He apparently likes torture. It was a struggle, but finally the last bolt went in and there hung an O-320 on N194MH (reserved). This is a hallmark day - too cool! Thanks Tom once again for the help! It is much appreciated.
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2010-06-07 |
Hours: 3 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1060
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Installed the subpanel and ribs |
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Riveted the subpanel and rib parts to fuse and firewall. Not as easy as I had thought it would be. I had to use several different bucking bars and several different configurations with the rivet gun: rivet set, double offset, and flush. Held the rivet gun in ways I had not before to get the job done. It's about time to mount the engine! Yeah!
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2010-06-06 |
Hours: 2 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1059
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Riveted the F-601K-1 firewall recess to the firewall |
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I had forgotten how much fun working with Proseal is. I buttered up and riveted the overlaps in the F-601K-1 recess, then buttered up the firewall and cleceod the recess into place. Prosealled the corners of the recess to cover the holes and began riveting. This went pretty well even with the engine mount installed.
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2010-06-05 |
Hours: 1.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1058
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Made and installed plate to cover firewall nose gear hole |
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Made a cover plate out of .032 aluminum to cover the oblong hole in the firewall at the nose gear bolt. Put a little proseal on it and riveted it to the firewall with aluminum rivets. The hole location on the drawing is slightly lower than what is required by about 1/2" if I remember correctly.
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2010-06-03 |
Hours: 2.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1057
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Main gear axle hub nuts finally drilled for cotter pins |
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Tom Roberts again helped me get through a task I have put off for a long time. He showed me how he drilled the main gear axles for the hub nut cotter pin. Basically, we set the nut tightness by tightening it nice and snug, then backing off a couple of turns, the re-tightening until it it stops - not tight, just barely finger tight. Drilled the front and after holes with a 12" #30 drill. It was dull, so we just marked the hole locations with it. Removed the nut and drilled the holes completely through from the outside - we did not drill just from one side thru to the other side. Cleaned up the holes with a Dremel wire wheel and wiped to clean of metal flakes, put the nut back on and put the cotter pin in. Not sure which cotter pin Vans calls out. We could not find it anywhere. We used a -362. They are extra long. Thanks Tom for the help!
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2010-05-29 |
Hours: 2 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1056
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Finished the fuel lines and fittings inside the fuse |
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Finished installing the fuel lines in the forward fuse. They were all in place, but I had waited to tighten and finish them in case I needed to removed them for any reason. I used Del seals on each flared fitting. Expensive little devils, but I think worth it for the fuel line fitting inside the fuse. Fuelubed and tightened all the fittings.
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2010-05-27 |
Hours: 2.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1055
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Drilled the hole and installed the fitting for the manifold pressure line in the firewall. installed the cotter pins in the engine mount bolts Installed the close tolerance bolt in the nose gear to engine mount and torqued it. It appears that I really need to acquire the engine monitors for the Dynon that I plan to use. I think there is a lot of that could be done easier as far as engine monitors before the engine is hung.
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2010-05-26 |
Hours: 2.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1054
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RTV'd a few firewall forward items and torqued the engine mount |
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I removed the heater box from the firewall and put red RTV sealant on it per the manual and reinstalled. I had earlier put a bead of RTV around the brake reservoir firewall hole. I removed the gascolator and smeared a little RTV around the fitting hole and reinstalled. I realized that I had not yet safety wired the four screws in the bottom of the gascolator, so I bet I will have to remove it again to do that. After that I torqued the six engine mount bolts. The firewall forward instructions show only a half dozen or so more tasks before mounting the engine - this is getting exciting!
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2010-05-25 |
Hours: 3 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1052
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Added fluid to the brake lines |
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Thanks to Tom Roberts for volunteering to help me add the brake fluid. I had never done this, but Tom has, so he knew what we were getting into AND STILL HELPED! Thanks a bunch Tom! The process went pretty well, but we did get brake fluid everywhere. I guess that is just part of it. There are still a few air pockets that we will get out of there soon, but the brakes operate nice and tight. Cold beer seems to help get rid of the brake fluid smell, so we tried that. ;)
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2010-05-24 |
Hours: 3 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1053
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Reinstalled the canopy slider hardware |
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I reinstalled all the slider canopy components that I had removed from the fuse before I painted the fuse interior. I almost forgot what a devil the little washers and nuts are to put in under the canopy decks. Pam and her dad dropped by so we could show him the latest "progress" on the project, so we had to put the slider canopy back on the show him how it looks and operates. Okay, I really wanted to put it back on so I could sit in the cockpit and open and shut it a few times and work the now-operating rudder pedals and brakes.
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2010-05-24 |
Hours: 1 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1051
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Installed the VA-168 sender mount on the firewall |
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I had earlier reinstalled the forward fuse structure and panel so that I could drill and install the VA-168 sender mount on the firewall.
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2010-05-23 |
Hours: 4 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1050
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Installed the brake lines |
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I used Bakerseal on all the brake line fittings except on the flared portion of the fittings in installed them permanently (I think). I installed the two big black brakes lines from the firewall to the left side brakes. Ran lengths of the plastic tubing from the left side to the right side and from the right side to the fitting at the brake reservoir. This was an interesting task. At first I thought I could just measure the lengths of plastic line needed and install the brass nuts, sleeves and inserts on the bench. You can do one end like that but the other end needs to be done in place in the airplane as the line will not go through the snap bushing in the center rudder weldment brace. I had to use a heat gun the heat the end of the tube to get the brass inserts in all the way. One of the engine mount holes work well as a heat gun holder. After heating the end of the tube with the brass insert partially installed, I quickly shoved the heat gun into the nearest engine mount hole and pressed the end of the tube against a universal head rivet on the fuse to seat the brass insert all the way. Took two or three heatings each tube. Be careful not to over-heat - only a few seconds waving the tube end two inches from the heat gun should do - very warm, but not too hot as that might deform the tube.
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2010-05-22 |
Hours: 2 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1049
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Mulled over the drawings and instructions and test fitted all the brake fittings to see what goes where. Hope to install the brake lines tomorrow.
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2010-05-21 |
Hours: 2 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1048
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Installed the new SB'd trim cable anchor in the elevator |
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Installed the trim cable thru the HS rib and into the elevator. Decided to go ahead and install Vans new service bulletin'd WD-415 trim cable anchor and got the trim working. There is about 1/4" play in the trim.
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2010-05-17 |
Hours: 2.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1047
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I drilled the holes in the rudder cable links, rounded the ends like on the drawing and cleaned and primed them. Also cleaned and primed the slider canopy rollers - I had not painted them yet. Also drilled the new WD-415 manual cable trim mount to the trim cable access plate and installed to see how it fit.
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2010-05-15 |
Hours: 3 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1046
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Work on rudder cable links |
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Spent an abnormally large bit of time trying to get my rudder cable links sized up. after mounting the empennage and putting the rudder in neutral position, and lining up the left side rudder pedals, I found that the left side links need to be about 1/4 to 3/8 inches shorter than the right side links. Triple and quadruple checked and rechecked before I cut the steel links. I used .063 aluminum links to work with the get the lengths to where I want them. I cut the steel strip to the lengths required and marked for the holes.
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2010-05-13 |
Hours: 3.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1045
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Installed the empennage so I can install the rudder cables |
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Decided to go ahead an install the empennage again so I can install the rudder cables and get the F-6119 rudder cable links cut to proper length. I will have to do some research to see how the install the cables before I cut these. Not sure of the correct procedure. I found that the passenger side pedals dictate the pedal extremes: the right pedal will hit the AN fitting on the top of the fuel pump and the left pedal will contact a firewall stiffener when pushed to the wall.
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2010-05-12 |
Hours: 2 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
size=8
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ID#:
1044
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Installed nutplates on the firewall |
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Installed three nutplates on the firewall stiffeners per plans. Two are at the top of the firewall recess. I had to drill and countersink before installing as the flush heads will be underneath the top flange of the F-601K-1 firewall recess. The other nutplate is to the left of the heater box and will be used to secure the vent tube. These locations are on the OP DWGs that come with the firewall forward kit. The plans and manual pages would be nice to have early on in the firewall construction. This would have been easier way back then.
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2010-05-11 |
Hours: 1 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1043
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Drilled some #12 holes in the firewall for adel clamps |
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Trying to get as many firewall items done before hanging the engine. I hope to avoid having to remove the engine/mount. Drilled three holes around the recess area that will be used to secure pipes/lines with adel clamps. With the engine mount already on, I had to use my angle drill to drill these.
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2010-05-04 |
Hours: 2.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1042
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Installed the heater box on the firewall. At first this seemed like it would be a simple task, but this is an aircraft project. Locating and drilling the left side bolt hole was easy by mounting the heater box and back drilling thru the nutplate with a #30 drill, then step up to final #10 hole. I used a unibit to 3/16 to keep the hole round then finished with a #10 drill. The task gets difficult when you try to locate the right side hole. The nutplate is behind the heater box scat tube flange, so you cannot just back drill it. I took careful measurements of the distance between the centers of the holes on the aft side of the heater box, measured carefully on the firewall and drilled a #40 pilot hole. Installed the heater box with the one left side bolt to see how well I did. By moving the heater box up and down to see the nutplate countersunk rivets pass by the #40 hole in the FW, you can tell how well the pilot hole was located. Mine was pretty much dead on, so I removed the heater box and finished drilling the right side hole to a #10. Drilled the hole in the right side firewall stiffener 1/4" lower than was called out on the plans due to the battery box bolt head interfering. Finished drilling to a #10 hole for the cabin heat control cable to pass thru. Bent the end of the control cable per plans and installed it to test it out. This cable is pretty long; I am sure it will have to be cut short once I have the location of the control on the instrument panel. I will wait until I think I do not have to remove the heater box again before I finish install it with the red high temp RTV sealant.
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2010-05-03 |
Hours: 1 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1041
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NOW I'm back to where I thought I was - missed something from long ago |
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I decided to put a length of shrink tube over the threaded rod that secures the slider canopy slide rail at the baggage bulkhead. With the threaded rod in place, I measured the distance between the two jam nuts. This is the length of shrink tube I will need. I removed the rod and put the shrink tube on it and re-installed it. Looks nice and hopefully the thing will not rust up again. I went to test fit the F-652 upper baggage bulkhead when I realized that it will not go on - I had not notched it to clear the threaded rod and jam nut. This notch is called out on DWG 29, SECTION A-A. This is the only reference. All drawings show the F-652 upper baggage bulkhead without the notch - as would be the case for the tip up canopy. I guess I missed this a few years back when I was working with the baggage bulkheads. So, I installed the F-652 upper baggage bulkhead without the slider threaded rod installed and marked the hole location from the aft side, thru the hole already in the F-706A fuselage bulkhead. Removed the F-652 upper baggage bulkhead and drilled a hole to 9/16" with a unibit and then trimmed material from their to the upper edge of the F-652 upper baggage bulkhead. Deburred and smoothed the edges and then reinstalled to test the fit with the slider rail threaded rod installed. Done!
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2010-05-03 |
Hours: 2.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1040
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Fuel lines done (redone) - Now I'm back to where I thought I was |
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Got the fuel lines hooked up to the Andair fuel valve. I elected to use unions on either side of the valve instead of trying to run new lines thru the gear weldments. I used a small hack saw to cut the lines between the F-982B and F-983B support ribs. I left extra length on the outboard portion to give me some wiggle room to adjust to proper length and be able to more easily flare the ends. I had to bend the tube with the spring bender forward to get at it with the flare tool. First I made the inboard lengths of line that connect to the Andair fuel valve and go down and outboard thru the F-983B support rib. I used enough tube to make sure I had extra length on the outboard end to cut away as needed to meet up with the outboard line/union. I cut the outboard lines, installed nut and sleeve, the flared the end and attached the union. I pretty much just eyeballed were to cut the inboard line to match up to the union. Once I had it cut, I put on the nut/sleeve and flared the end. This was much easier as I was able to pull this little length thru the hole in the F-983B support rib to a position that I needed to flare the end. Once flared, I reconnected to the Andair fuel valve and the union to the outboard length of line. The inboard lengths are easy to duplicate: start with about 9 or 10 inches of tube; the end that attaches to the Andair fuel valve down to the 90 degree turn is 3" to the outside of the radius. From there 4" more from outside radius to outside radius of a 45 degree bend. Need at least 3" minimum from there outboard to work with thru the F-983B support rib and have enough to move the nut and sleeve out of the way of the flaring tool.
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2010-04-27 |
Hours: 2.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1039
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Began to reinstall fuel lines to the Andair fuel valve |
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Today I began reinstalling fuel lines to my new Andair fuel selector valve. I made a new line to go from the valve to the fuel pump, then began work on the left and right fuel lines. I hope I will be able to salvage the existing lines that go through the gear weldments. I cut the existing lines between the F-982B and F-983B cover support ribs and removed the length of fuel line that goes from there to the old Vans standard valve. I took some measurements and rebuilt the lines from the cut points to the new Andair valve. So, I will need to get two unions to connect the lines on each left and right fuel line. I had hoped to avoid this, but I don't want to pull new lines through the gear weldments.
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2010-04-16 |
Hours: 4 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1038
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Reinstalled some items in the fuselage |
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Sure spent a lot of time doing what seems like very little. I installed the grip handles into the roll bar and reinstalled the roll bar onto the fuse. I had forgotten what a booger this was. Took a lot longer than I expected. I also reinstalled the fuel vent lines in the forward fuse. I cleaned and removed the rust from the threaded rod that holds the slider canopy rail secure and then spray painted it to keep it from rusting again. Installed it.
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2010-04-14 |
Hours: 2 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1037
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I think I'm finished painting for a while |
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Today I painted the roll bar and roll bar brace and touched up some spots inside the fuse. Only have a few drops of paint left - maybe enough for touching up later. Glad this is done!
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2010-04-13 |
Hours: 6 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1036
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Painted the fuselage interior and more |
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Painted the fuselage interior and the dashboard area of the top forward skin. I used flat black on the dash. The interior is painted with JetFlex water-based. I am real happy working with the JetFlex. It sprays on nicely and sets quickly and seems to be very durable. We'll see. And clean up is easier with the water-based paint. Also, there is no mixing of components initially, just added 10 percent water.
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2010-04-12 |
Hours: 2 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1035
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Getting closer to painting the interior, I primed a few more parts: roll bar and roll bar brace, top skin in the dashboard area ready for flat black paint, and the pilot side control stick.
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2010-03-31 |
Hours: 3.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1034
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Painted interior panels, seat backs, etc. |
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Finally a beautiful not so windy day to do some painting. I set out to get the interior of the fuse painted but only got all of the removable panels, seat backs, etc. painted.
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2009-09-28 |
Hours: 2 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1025
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Getting ready to paint the interior |
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Removed the slider canopy and stored it. Removed the roller rail, slider pin block, panel, roll bar and forward top skin. Getting it ready to clean and paint inside.
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2009-09-24 |
Hours: 5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1024
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Grip handles installed in roll bar |
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Saw some nice looking grip handles in an RV at Oshkosh and decided to install some like them. Ordered some round bar from ACS and fabricated two of them after practicing on a scrap piece. The stuff is hard to bend. Drilling them into the roll bar takes some studying. You need to make sure the slider canopy front bow does not scrap them when you open and shut it. After priming and painting, I think they came out pretty nice.
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2009-09-19 |
Hours: 2.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1023
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Finished assembling the slider canopy |
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Finished pop riveting the canopy today. I popped the fore and aft bows, and squeezed all of the C-660 side to C-666 aft skirt rivets. Then I squeezed the rivets on the dog house. Installed the rear handle on the top. The slider canopy is done!
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2009-09-18 |
Hours: 5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1022
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Began final assembly of the slider canopy |
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Began assembling the slider canopy. I reinstalled the slider pin blocks. Then I put the canopy frame on the fuse, installed the rear slider rail block bolt and roller bolts and clecoed the canopy to the frame. I got inside and riveted the C-791 braces to the canopy frame. Next I riveted the C-660 side skirts to the canopy frame. Installed the screws in the lower side canopy to side skirts. Riveted the lower flanges of the C-791 braces to the side skirts. Then I installed the C-666 aft skirts. It was getting late but I couldn't help but install a few pop rivets. I popped the dorsal rivets and a few on the top of the fore and aft bows and called it a night.
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2009-09-16 |
Hours: 2 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1021
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Painted the slider canopy frame and parts |
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Finally got my Jetflex interior paint in. Looks to be a pretty darn good match to my leather swatches from ClassicAero. I have the Ash color interior with Light Grey inlaid. The Light Grey is actually the darker color. I painted the slider canopy frame, side skirts, aft skirts, side braces, dog house and fuel valve plate. Cannot wait to start assembling the slider canopy for good.
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2009-09-08 |
Hours: 1 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1020
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While I am waiting for my interior paint to arrive, I decided to tackle modifying the F-983A fuel valve mount plate to accept my new Andair fuel valve. The valve looks very well made. The Allen valve that Rutan "recommends" from ACS as a drop in replacement was not a drop in replacement for the standard valve Vans sells. I figured that if I need to rework my fuel lines, I might as well install the Andair. It was only $50 more than the Allen valve and is much much nicer. The switch indicator plate and anodized selector knob are quite nice. The valve came with a packet of screws and a couple of allen wrenches. One allen wrench to remove the selector knob and the other to install the eight screws - four for each fuel fitting outlet from the valve. The fuel fittings are installed on the fuel valve housing but the screws have not been inserted. So I inserted the screws until tight. I will have to redo my fuel lines. I may just cut them half way between the gear weldments and the fuel valve and install union fittings instead of pulling completely new fuel lines from the wing root. I had already sized, flared and fitted the fuel lines to the wing tanks fittings a good while back. I was able to salvage the F-983A fuel valve plate by locating the required 1" hole such that I would avoid having its three screw mount holes coincide with the two existing bolt holes for the old valve. And it is still centered on the fuel valve plate. The Andair will be a much nicer valve operationally and aesthetically.
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2009-09-03 |
Hours: 2 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1016
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I had to modify the dog house to get it to fit correctly without (hopefully) causing the aft skirts to lift once they are riveted together. I looks like I have everything ready to disassemble and prepare for painting. I am waiting on my paint to arrive.
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2009-08-31 |
Hours: 5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1015
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Right side C-660 side and C-666 aft canopy skirts |
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Got the right side C-666 aft canopy skirt fitted to the slider/fuse. This side was a bit higher in the back than the left side, so I had to put more bend in the top part of the aft skirt to get it close to lying down on the top aft fuse skin. Also had to put some bend in the bottom of the side skirt to get a closer fit. Lucky I had Tom Roberts come by. He helped by get this aft skin drilled and clecoed. Thanks Tom!
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2009-08-30 |
Hours: 4.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1014
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Wrestling the left side C-666 aft skirt and C-660 side skirt |
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More grueling slider canopy work today. Third day of the skirts marathon. I had to remove them, modify them, put them back on a bunch of times. I finally got the fit of the C-666 left aft canopy skirt to fit okay. There is a gap at the bottom of the side skirt where the two over lap, but I believe I will call this side done. Whew!
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2009-08-29 |
Hours: 4 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1013
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More canopy slider aft skirt work |
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Long day in the hangar again today, trying to get the left side C-666 aft canopy skirt to fit. Had to work the metal a good bit and still cannot get it to look good. Also, the aft end of the C-660 side skirt needs to be bent inward to lie flat against the fuse skit. It juts out at the last few inches and is causing the aft skirt at the overlap to stand away from the fuse. I have put on and taken of the aft skirt and side skirt over a dozen times, bending where I think it needs bending. Tiring chore when you cannot see the end getting near.
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2009-08-28 |
Hours: 3 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1012
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Began working on the slider canopy aft skirts. Got the left side C-666 aft canopy skirt drilled and clecoed to the aft canopy bow. It wants to stick out at the bottom where it intersects the C-660 canopy side skirt. Also, the side skirt needs to be bent inward below the rivet line of the C-791 brace to remove the gap between the side skirt and the fuse skin. Not sure how this is going to turn out. I know why the aft skirt was called C-666 now - it's the devil to get it to fit correctly.
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2009-08-26 |
Hours: 2 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
9-14
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ID#:
1011
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Installed slider canopy aft handle |
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Installed a handle on the aft dorsal of the slider canopy to make it easier to open. Started by drilling the two screw holes through the top to #40 all the way through the dorsal bar. Removed the canopy, enlarged the two holes to 7/32", deburred and sanded all the canopy edges with fine sand paper to finish them nice and smooth. I think I am done drilling and sanding the canopy. Next i enlarged the two handle holes in the canopy slider frame, stepping to #30, 21 then 19. Same with the aluminum strip. Clecoed the canopy back onto the slider frame, installed the C-660 side skirts with #6 screws and clecoes, and then test-fitted the handle. Looks like it will work very well.
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2009-08-24 |
Hours: 2.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
9-14
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ID#:
1010
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Deburring, dimpling and countersinking the C-660 slider canopy side skirts |
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Took a lot of time to do very little visibly. Got the C-660 slider canopy side skirts deburred, dimpled and countersunk were appropriate and re-clecoed them to the slider canopy. I installed the #6 screws. Need to get to the aft skirts. Oh boy! Also, I am installing a cabinet handle on the aft dorsal of the slider canopy to make it easy to open the canopy from the outside. Also contemplating installing some handles into the roll bar to assist getting in and out of the cockpit.
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2009-08-22 |
Hours: 1.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Helper: Pam
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Manual Ref:
9-14
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ID#:
1009
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Drilled and clecoed the slider canopy side skirts to C-791 braces |
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I trimmed more off of the C-660 side skirts at the forward bottom edge to allow more clearance from the canopy deck. It now is a bit over 1/16" and does not scrape the caonpy deck when it is opened. Drilled and clecoed the C-660 slider canopy side skirts to the C-791 braces. Pam held the side skirts tight on the outside with a piece of wood and I drilled from inside. Pam clecoed as we went along. Once done, there is a small gap in the C-660 overhang. Perhaps I can roll the bottoms of the C-660's a little to get them to seal tighter.
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2009-08-21 |
Hours: 2.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
9-14
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ID#:
1008
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Drilled and clecoed the slider canopy side skirts to the the canopy |
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Drilled and clecoed the C-660 slider canopy side skirts thru the canopy lower edges and the C-759 inside skirts. This went pretty well, but I had to de-cleco every few that I drilled to clean out the shavings where it was building up between the side skirts and the canopy. This was to make sure the side skirt lay up against the canopy tightly before moving onto the next holes (started drilling from the middle, fore and aft.) After that task, I was going to drill the C-791 skirt braces but I had to remove the material from the forward lower edges of the C-660 side skirts per the plans in order to open the canopy. I measured the overlap of the side skirts to the fuse side at the forward end of the skirts and used this measurement at the 8 15/16" mark. After cutting the material away, and filing some, the side skirts fit with just a little bit of clearance when the canopy is shut. But then I open the slider canopy, the forward lower corners of the side skirts contact the canopy decks so more material will need to be removed.
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2009-08-20 |
Hours: 2.75 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
9-14
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ID#:
1006
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Drilled and clocoed the C-660 and C-759 to the slider canopy side rails |
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After plenty of head scratching, measuring and more measureing, I marked the top two rows of rivets on the C-660 side skirt and drilled to #40. Next I marked the center line on the slider frame side rails and then match drilled the C-660 side skirts to the slider frame side rails. Then more head scratching trying to figure out how to get the C-759 inside canopy skirts positioned correctly to get a starter hole drilled. I didn't see any dimensions for positioning the C-759 fore or aft; the manual only says to line up the top edges of the C-660 with the C-759 and drill four holes spread evenly along the length of the C-660. This is so you can cleco both the C-660 and C-759 to the slider frame side rails so you can finish drilling and clecoing all the holes. So I put extended marks on the fore-most hole in the slider frame side rail vertically and horizontally, place the C-759 by itself into position and drew a crosshair based on the extended lines. See photo below. Once this was done I clecoed both the C-660 and C-759 to the slider frame side rails and drilled the remaining holes. Next - drilling the canopy lower edge screw holes.
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2009-08-18 |
Hours: 3 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
9-14
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ID#:
1005
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Installed the aft slider rail on the top aft fuse. I had some unused positioning holes that needed to be filled with rivets to nowhere in the fuse skin. Also a few in the slider rail itself. Drilled and countersunk the screw holes and installed on the fuse. Drilled the C-791 skin braces to #30 to the inside of the canopy side rails. Had to sit inside with the canopy shut to do this.Uh...you can't open the canopy with those clecoes in! Removed them and decided to pre-drill the rivet holes in the bottom flange of the C-791's, versus pre-drilling the C-660 side skirts and hoping they line up well when match drilling the C-791 skirt braces as the manual proposes. I will match drill from inside for that row of rivets.
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2009-08-16 |
Hours: 1 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
9-14
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ID#:
1004
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More work on the slider canopy latch assembly |
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I did not get the top handle installed very well. Can't seem to drill a straight hole today. I enlarged the screw hole in the top canopy latch handle to a #10 because my #8 hole was crooked. Turns out that my first handle will work out better than the one I just bought. Oh well! I had to use an AN3-7A bolt for now. I will order a screw from ACS. At least the handle is centered nicely when the canopy is locked shut.
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2009-08-15 |
Hours: 1.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
9-14
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ID#:
1003
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Slider canopy latch mechanism |
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Got my new parts for the slider canopy latch mechanism. I wasn't happy with the way the first iteration turned out. I got the latch arm working very well. It locks tightly but not too tightly. Not happy with the way the top handle turned out.
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2009-08-12 |
Hours: 2 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
9-14
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ID#:
1002
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C-665 anchor blocks and C-677 rear pin mounts |
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I decided to try and rig up a jig on my drill press. It is an 8" Delta. I remembered that the drill press platform can be tilted at an angle, so I loosened the bolt and rotated the platform to about 23 degrees as called out on the DWG 41, C-677 Rear Pin Mount view. After moving the drill up and down on the press and making minor adjustments, I got the press lined up with the marks on the C-665 anchor blocks. Now for the other angle, approximately 5 degrees inward, I used a piece of 1/16" aluminum angle clamped to the drill press platform and sat the edge of the anchor block on the edge of the aluminum angle and noted where it sat when the angle was close to the 5 degree mark. I clamped another piece of angle perpendicular to the first one to act as a stop for the anchor block so it would not slip. Then I held the anchor block as steadily as I could and drilled the 1/4" hole. I test-fitted the anchor block in the C-677 rear pin mount and worked the slider canopy several times to check the fit. It is tight and snug but the angle seems right, so I reversed the drill press platform and re-did the jig for the other anchor block and drilled that one too. I test fitted both anchor blocks and worked the slider back and forth. It was too tight, so I decided to drill out the holes with a 17/64th drill to about 1/2" deep into the anchor block holes. This allowed the canopy pins to enter and exit nicely. So I drilled and countersunk the C-677 rear pin mounts for the AN509-10R18 screws and installed them. Seems to work pretty well. I had to make some adjustments to the anchor blocks, removing material off the forward edges (approx. 1/16") with a small chop saw. This allowed the slider canopy to shut completely with the anchor pins driven all the way home.
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2009-08-11 |
Hours: 2.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
9-14
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ID#:
1001
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Slider canopy latch and rear pin anchor work |
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Worked more on the slider canopy latch assembly to try and get it to work better. It is too loose. I reordered parts just in case I need to redo this. I bent a double joggle in the latch arm to make it catch the pin more reliably. It also made the latch shut tighter due to the joggle taking a slight bit of length out of the latch arm. Still not completely happy with this. More later. I installed the C-677 rear pin mounts. I marked lines on the C-665 rear pin anchor blocks according to the manual and drilled the spot hole where the pins contact the blocks. I have a drill press but no drill press vice, so I thought it best to stop for the day before trying to drill the pin holes manually with no jig.
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2009-08-10 |
Hours: 3 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
1000
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Finished the right C-791 canopy skirt brace. Then installed the C-677 rear pin mounts onto the fuse. Also drilled the C-657 canopy track mount holes to size. For some reason I am short on the washers and nuts to install the tracks, so I had to order more from ACS. I do not have an 11/32" wrench to install the nuts up under the canopy deck, so I'll have to get one.
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2009-08-09 |
Hours: 2.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
999
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I got the left C-791 canopy skirt brace ready to assemble. I measured and marked the rivet lines in the upper and lower flanges and the center points of the holes to be cut out of the center part and the cut lines from the cutout holes thru the bottom flange. I drilled the cutout holes initially to #40, then I used a 1.25" hole saw to cut the holes. The piece was clamp in the table vice to hold it securely. The hole saw worked very well, taking about three or four seconds per hole. After that I cut the slits from the cut out hole thru the bottom flange with a hacksaw. After deburring and edge smoothing, the gaps come out right at 1/16" as the plans call for.
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2009-08-08 |
Hours: 3 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
998
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Assembled and installed the slider canopy latch system |
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I have assembled the slider canopy latch, test fitted it to the canopy frame. I had to cut about 1/4" off the canopy bushing to get the latch to line up with the post on the roll bar. I also had to remove a good bit of material from the latch arm to get it to operate properly. After getting the latch operational, it is now too loose and does not stay latched. Also, the handle on top is off center a bit, so I am not happy with that. It was difficult to hold the top handle and latch handle in line while drilling. I will have to figure out a way to hold the parts more securely on my redo. I ordered new parts from Vans. It's been awhile since I had to order replacement parts, so I guess I'm over due. Like everything else, once you screw it up, you know what needs to be done. Otherwise, what a great day at the airport. We had our Young Eagles flights today. Still recovering from a cold, I opted out of flying, but many kids, parents and their YE pilots came by my hangar which is across from the flight line, to see my project under construction.
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2009-08-06 |
Hours: 2.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
997
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Trimmed the aft edge of the windscreen and clamped it into place to check the alignment of it and the slider canopy. It was a bit low so i started drilling and clecoing from the top center, clamping, drilling, adding AN960-6 washers to get the windscreen edge to closely match the canopy edge height, undoing the clamps clecoing the hole and then moving onto drilling the next holes down each side, resetting every time in order to get a good fit. Got all fifteen holes drilled in the windscreen to roll bar. The windscreen aft edge matches the slider canopy pretty good.
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2009-07-27 |
Hours: 2 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
996
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Trimmed the sides of the canopy to the proper length above the slider frame side rails. Decided to go ahead and cut and form the C-759 inside canopy skirts to test the fit. Also countersunk and enlarged the two doghouse holes in the canopy and drilled to #30 and dimpled the corresponding holes in the doghouse. Off to OSH in the morning bright and early!
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2009-07-26 |
Hours: 2 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
995
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More trimming on the canopy |
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Did some trimming on the canopy to get closer to being done with that. I trimmed the forward edge and more off of the aft edges and drilled for the dog house on the top of the aft bow. Still need to trim the sides to the proper length for the side skirts.
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2009-07-23 |
Hours: 1.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
993
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Finished countersinking and enlarging canopy holes |
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Finished countersinking and enlarging the fore and dorsal rivet holes in the canopy. Clecoed the canopy onto the slider frame. It seems to slide a bit smoother since I bent the forward bow of the slider frame another 1/4" inward a few days ago.
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2009-07-22 |
Hours: 2 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
992
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Enlarged some holes in the canopy |
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Back from Florida trip, I was itching to move forward on the slider canopy work. I got about half the holes already drilled in the canopy countersunk, enlarged to 5/32" and deburred. This was unnerving at first, but I did practice on some scraps to get the countersink depth right and practice enlargening the holes with the unibit. The microstop countersink works well to countersink the canopy, but I had to keep pressing on the reverse side of the canopy and constantly clean out the plexiglass shavings from the countersink. Enlarging the holes with the unibit went well but I tended to work into the next larger size on some holes, then I got smart and drilled as much as I could to 5/32" and finished from the reverse side of the plexiglass.
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2009-07-16 |
Hours: 3 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
991
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Back drilled the dorsal cover strip thru the canopy holes. Cut to proper length, deburred and dimpled the holes. I adjusted the slider frame by bending the front bow in another ¼ inch since the slider assembly tended to force outward when on the fuse. The manual says not to bend once drilled but somewhere else says to adjust the frame once you drill the #40 holes through the canopy initially as the assembly will likely be wider than desired after initial drilling. Huh? I think what Vans means is that if you intend to adjust the frame after initially drilling the #40 holes, you can make slight adjustments and this should be done before drilling the holes in the slider frame to #30. Who knows? I drilled the #40 holes in the slider frame to #30 and deburred.
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2009-07-15 |
Hours: 1.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
990
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More cutting on the canopy |
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When I drilled and clecoed earlier, I left some extra material on the sides of the canopy that overlapped the square tubing side rail of the slider canopy frame. I cut this off of both sides enough to clear the side rails. The canopy bulges towards the aft and when I push it in even with the side rail, the canopy wants to move forward slightly, which is noticable with movement of the bottom two clecoes on the forward slider bow. Not sure if this is going to cause problems later.
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2009-07-12 |
Hours: 2.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
989
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Drilled and clecoed the canopy to the slider frame |
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After several sessions of trail clamping, walking around the canopy and slider frame, and head scratching, I took the plunge and drilled and clecoed the canopy to the front and aft bows of the the slider frame. Seemed to go very well. I drilled at slow speed through the canopy and then higher rpm into the slider frame.
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2009-07-11 |
Hours: 3 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
988
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Is it possible that I have gotten the canopy slider frame bent adequately enough to drill? I have test clamped the canopy to the frame to see how it fits. Once you clamp the aft and fore bows it does fine until you clamp along the side rails. Then it bugles at the fore bow. Not sure how to get the canopy clamp tight like it suggests in the manual before drilling. I hope to be drilling the fore and aft bows tomorrow. Thanks to everyone who has dropped by the hangar to check on my slider. It is great to have so much RV knowledge and experience at KCUB.
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2009-07-08 |
Hours: 3 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
987
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Spent a bunch of time today bending the slider canopy frame. The aft bow more closely matches the aft fuse skin, but it is not going to be perfect. I hope to finish tweaking the frame during my next session and then finished drilling the canopy to the frame. I used a conduit bender to exact some bends on the aft bow in several places. This worked very well; with the long handle on the conduit bender, you can get adequate torque to make tiny bends.
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2009-07-05 |
Hours: 2 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
986
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Did a lot of head scratch, cussing, etc. and some slider canopy bending to try and get the aft bow to more closely match the fuse aft skin. I decided to go ahead and drill and cleco the slider canopy frame dorsal bar.
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2009-06-27 |
Hours: 2 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
985
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More tinkering with the slider frame |
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Still trying to decide where and how to bend the slider frame aft bow. I have a conduit bender that may work to get the bow bent fit the shape of the aft fuse skin. Also, I believe my slider rail will need to be move forward some to get the aft bow to the correct height. It is HOT today. The thermometer is reading 108 F in the hangar. Perfect for plexiglass work, but hard on the builder.
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2009-06-24 |
Hours: 1 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
984
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More work on the slider frame |
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Another attempt at getting through the slider canopy work. Spent some time bending the frame to get the front bow parallel to the roll bar. This helped the side rails at the rear lift a little and the side rail is more parallel to the canopy deck. A step closer perhaps.
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2009-06-02 |
Hours: 5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
983
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Trimmed and fitted the windscreen |
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A nice hot day to do canopy work. I trimmed the windscreen to fit except for the aft edge. I did four or five trims to finally get the fit along the fore fuse top skin. It will take a few clips to get the sides to fit tight up against the fuse skin. Otherwise it looks like a nice fit.
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2009-05-27 |
Hours: 2.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
982
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Installed the F-824B cover plates and nutplates in the aft fuse |
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Installed the F-824B access cover plates and the nutplates on the aft fuse. Also finished installing the F-994A emp gap covers, drilling, countersinking and tapping the screw holes for #6 screws, and dimpling the F-994A's.
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2009-05-06 |
Hours: 0.25 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
979
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Riveted left rudder cable fairing to fuse |
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Just moving right along! Riveted the left side rudder cable fairing to the fuse and reinstalled the adel clamps that secure the nylon tube cable protector.
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2009-05-05 |
Hours: 0.25 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
978
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Riveted the right side rudder cable fairing |
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Riveted the right side rudder cable fairing to the fuse. Had not bucked rivets in quite some time. Yikes I've gotten a little rusty!
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2009-05-04 |
Hours: 1 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
977
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Riveted the F-981 VS attach plate to the VS spar and the F-912D up elevator stop to the aft deck and installed the two bolts.
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2009-05-03 |
Hours: 1 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
976
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I was bound and determined to get something done today, so I prepped and primed some VS attach parts. Moving right along!
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2008-09-30 |
Hours: 2.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Helper: Pam
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
972
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Trimmed some more around the bottom edges of the canopy and clamped it to the slider frame. After clamping on the aft bow and side rails, the canopy wanted to lift away from the forward bow. I was not sure how that would effect the cut line of the big cut so I took all the clamps off, pushed the canopy down on the forward bow and clamped the sides. This held it down better. I marked my cut line, taped on both side of it. It took about 15 or 20 minutes to make the big cut. Finally! I hope it works out.
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2008-09-29 |
Hours: 4 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Helper: Pam
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
971
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Getting close to the big cut |
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Spent the day trimming more off the canopy and setting it up for the big cut. After clamping to the aft bow and side tubes the plexiglass at the forward bow wants to lift off of the forward bow. Not sure why. I am hoping that after the big cut is made the plexiglass will be managable and will clamp to the forward bow with no problem. The windscreen portion may be keeping it from sitting down nicely on the forward bow.
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2008-09-28 |
Hours: 5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Helper: Multiple
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
970
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Started cutting the canopy! |
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Started cutting the canopy today. Eduardo came over to the hangar to help out. He just did this task recently, so his advise and help was very welcome and appreciated. We marked the centerline and put painters tape along the center line and I started trimming the canopy sides. James came by and helped us get the canopy frame positioned and centered in the canopy plexiglass. Thanks for the help James! We marked the latch hole and drilled it with a unibit to 5/8" and sanded the hole enough to make it fit the canopy slider frame latch tube. I trimmed more excess plexiglass off of the rear so I could clamp the plexiglass to the aft bow. We stopped there for the day. Hope to make the big cut tomorrow. Hint: wear a long sleeve shirt, protective googles and a face mask. The plexiglass spits off hot plastic that will torture your arms and get in your eyes and everywhere else. I had two big fans blowing to move the debris out of the hangar.
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2008-09-27 |
Hours: 2 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Helper: Multiple
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
969
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Finally got the slider frame bent correctly - I hope |
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Pam and I worked with the slider canopy frame trying to get it bent correctly. Eduardo and James stopped by the hangar and helped tremendously. Both of them have already done one or two of these. They both helped get some twist out of the frame and we think we might start cutting the canopy tomorrow.
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2008-09-17 |
Hours: 1 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
967
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Worked more today on getting the slider canopy frame aft bow bent to conform the aft top skin. The more I bend this thing, the screw-upper it gets. This continues to be very frustrating.
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2008-09-16 |
Hours: 2 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
966
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Slider canopy frame ain't cooperating |
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Worked some more today trying to get the aft part of the slider canopy frame bent correctly. This task just plain sucks! You bend it to fit somewhere and it doesn't fit somewhere else. This is pretty aggravating. I decided I'd rather be flying, so that's what i did.
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2008-09-15 |
Hours: 4 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
965
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More work on the slider canopy |
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I finished cutting out the C-666 aft canopy skirts and smoothed the edges. After that I spent a bunch of time trying to get the slider frame forward bow bent to the right width. Take it off, bend it, put it back on, and repeat several times. Finally got it close enough to go ahead and drill and cleco the C-657 canopy tracks into place on the canopy deck. The canopy frame seems to roll back and forth okay, but could be smoother.
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2008-09-07 |
Hours: 3 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Helper: Pam
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
963
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Yet more tinkering with the canopy slider frame |
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Pam and I did a bunch of head scratching, plans/manual studying, and began again trying to bend the slider canopy fore and aft bows to get the fit right. It seems that we will need to bend the side tubes inward a slight bit, exacting the bend around eight or nine inches from the aft end. I think we are getting closer to figuring out just how to bend this dog gone thing. I did install the threaded rod to the top of the baggage bulkhead and the slider rail temporarily to help secure the slider rail some. Also had to drill out three each side of the aft of the canopy deck where 426 countersink were called for buy I had used 470's quite a while back - I was looking at the tip up section on the DWG 25 before I suppose. These are where the UHMW blocks will be installed for the slider canopy pins.
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2008-08-22 |
Hours: 1 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
962
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Tinkering with the canopy frame |
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Spent some more time tinkering with the canopy frame, trying to get my head back into the task. Hope to get moving on this really soon!
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2008-08-20 |
Hours: 1 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Helper: Pam
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
961
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Cut to shape and drilled, deburred and dimpled my set of rudder cable fairings to the fuse. They are ready to prime.
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2008-07-26 |
Hours: 0.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
959
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Finished drilling rivet holes in the VS fore spar and F-981 VS attach plate |
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With the VS removed from the fuse, I was able to finish drilling the VS forward spar to F-981 VS attach plate upper row of holes with the angle drill that I could not get to before. Drilled and deburred the attach plate and spar holes and edge-deburred the attach plate. It is ready to prime.
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2007-09-12 |
Hours: 0 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
956
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Got my seats in from ClassicAero Designs. Love the smell of leather! I installed the seat backs in the fuse and test fitted the seats. Of course I had to sit in them to see how it will feel. Now if I can just get back to working on the canopy!
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2007-07-03 |
Hours: 2 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
9-9
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ID#:
953
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Assembled slider rail/spacer parts |
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Got the slider rail bent properly and drilled to the slider spacer. Deburred, cleaned, and primed. I did not prime the slider rail so the slider will slide easily. I riveted the slider rail to the slider spacer and re-installed on the fuse with tape to hold it in place.
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2007-07-02 |
Hours: 1 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
9-9
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ID#:
948
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More work on canopy slider rail |
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I decided to redo my canopy slider rail so I ordered new parts. This time I will wait to drill the screw holes so I can make sure they are positioned so as not to fall on a rivet on the fuse top rib.
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2007-02-14 |
Hours: 1 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
928
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Accomplished Vans SB 07-2-6 passenger control stick install |
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Accomplished Vans Service Bulletin 07-2-6 passenger control stick install. Started by drilling #40 then stepping up to the #12. Drilled pilot hole in the socket 1/2" below the top with a #40 drill, then inserted the control stick, marked alignment lines on both, then drilled thru socket into stick on one side only. Removed the stick, marked the hole location on the other side, drill it then reinstalled stick. Drilled thru socket and stick thru other side of socket. Enlarged to #30, #19, then #12, making sure the drill was inserted in the opposite hole because you cannot see it. Installed AN3-13A bolt. Done!
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2006-10-30 |
Hours: 0.75 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
925
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Left side emp fairing rubber channel installed |
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Trimmed and installed the left side emp fairing rubber channel seal.
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2006-08-25 |
Hours: 0.75 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
923
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Finished riveting the top aft skin |
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Finished up the riveting on the top aft skin and 6111 ribs. Nice to see the fuse taking shape!
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2006-08-24 |
Hours: 1.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Helper: James
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
922
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Riveted most of the aft top skin |
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EAA 242'er James Clark dropped by and helped me rivet the top aft skin. Riveted all except the 706 bulkhead and the F-6111 ribs. I can reach those, so I'll finish that tomorrow. Thanks for getting me over that hurdle James!
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2006-06-05 |
Hours: 2.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
912
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Primed all ELT mount and strobe pack mount parts |
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Cleaned and primed all the ELT mount, strobe pack mount parts and the altitude servo mount. Installed the ELT, and test fitted the strobe pack. Can't install the servo mount until I get the servo because the drawings that Trutrak has on their website doesn't give adequate dimensions. Also today I took a detour and made the clips to hold the static line. I installed the line to see how it will run thru the fuse. Not sure how to deal with the line as it runs through the 904 bulkhead up under the canopy deck. Made a clip that will attach with the forward roll bar bolt but I am not sure I will use this. I am concerned about the static line vibrating against skin/longeron rivet shop heads in this area. More head scratching...
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2006-06-04 |
Hours: 3 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
911
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Made all the parts for mounting the strobe power pack |
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Decided to place the strobe power pack just behind the baggage bulkhead on the right side. The main wiring route will run through the elevator "trench" and I have a hole in the 706 bulkhead near the center, so I faced the wiring side of the strobe power pack towards the center.
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2006-06-03 |
Hours: 1.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
910
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Got a reply from Bruce at Vans about my ELT mounting strategy. He said, "Your ELT mount looks good." So I will go with it. I had the angles already drilled and clecoed to the 707 bulkhead, so I went ahead and drilled and clecoed the sub-mount plate to those angles and the 729 rib angle. I have a spacer at the front end of the ELT mount with an additional screw to hold it more solidly. The sub-mount plate I made is longer than needed. I did this with the thought that I may go with a 406 Mhz ELT in the future and if I did my calculating correctly, the sub-mount plate should accommodate another model such as the Artex ME406. I plan to pre-wire for a 406 Mhz for later installation.
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2006-05-31 |
Hours: 2.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
909
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Experimented with ELT install location |
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I have been considering installing the ELT at the intersection of the 729 bellcrank rib and the 707 bulkhead. I put two lengths of angle on either side of the 729 rib and cut a piece of .063 sheet that will be riveted to the two angles attached to the 707 bulkhead and also riveted to the 729 rib upper flange. The right angle has a piece of .025 shim between it and the bulkhead on the outboard half to make up for the bulkhead overlap. A hole is drilled in it as well to fit over an existing rivet head near the 729 rib. I plan to put three 1/8" rivets thru each angle and the mount plate and about six rivets thru the plate and the 729 rib angle. I will ask Vans if this is okay before I do any riveting. More later.
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2006-05-11 |
Hours: 0.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
906
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Removed right wing and stored them for now |
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My good friend Jason came by today, so I drafted him to help me put my wings in my new wing cradle. He helped me removed the right wing. This was a lot easier with two people. Those wing bolts are hard to get out unless the wing is at the exact angle it needs to be to allow the bolts to be removed easily. The wing cradle works great with the wheels. If I did it again, I'd use 4" wheels instead of the 2" ones I bought. I think with would roll much easier, but the 2" wheels are okay.
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2006-05-11 |
Hours: 1.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
905
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Installed more platenuts on left wing inboard edge |
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Installed the top skin platenuts on the inboard edge of the left wing for the wing gap fairing screws. Figured out a way to dimpled the screw hole just below the 905 tank attach angle. I modified one of the platenuts (it's scrap now) by grinding off all the threaded portion of it, leaving just the "dimpled" part. I used this as the female part of the dimple die set and used the squeezer with just the male dimple die on it. This allow the squeezer to fit in between the 905 angle and the "female" die. The dimpled turned out pretty good. Installed the platenut on the 905 tank attach angle as well.
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2006-05-10 |
Hours: 2.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
904
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Removed left wing, started installing platenuts for wing gap fairing |
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Removed the left wing and began installing the platenuts for the wing gap fairing screws. Got all the ones on the tank skin installed except the one just below the 905 tank attach angle. The squeezer wouldn't fit in there to dimpled for the screw. Quit for today. Will find a solution for how to dimple
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2006-04-20 |
Hours: 5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
901
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Installed vents to forward skins, other stuff |
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Drilled the vents to the forward side skins. Deburred and dimpled the skins, countersunk the vents. Cleaned the mating surfaces again, buttered up the vents with proseal and riveted them to the skins. What a mess the proseal is yet again. Hopefully some interior painting will cover the mess a little. Deburred and dimpled the top forward skin and prepped it and a few other parts for priming.
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2006-04-19 |
Hours: 4.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
900
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Misc. fuse work, deburred, dimpled fore cabin ribs, prepped for vents |
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Drilled the F-7108C angle to the center rib and subpanel. Disassembled the foreward cabin ribs and subpanels. Deburred and dimpled everything. Riveted the 7108C angle to the center rib and subpanel. Dimpled the firewall for the forward fuse ribs. The squeezer worked on the upper two holes on each row of holes, so I had to do some thinking on how to dimple the rest of the firewall rivet holes. Then it hit me - use the C-Frame! It worked like a charm. Used some MEK to remove the primer around the area for the vents to be mounted on the fore fuse skins. Prepped the exposed aluminum for prosealing soon. Also made some 1/2"x1/2" washers for the rivets to bare on when I rivet the vents in place. I plan to use three on top and three on bottom. The proseal will hold by itself I am sure, but a few rivets will hold it in place while it cures and add extra strength. Also clean up the cabin area with hopes of painting the inside soon. Removed the vent lines and fuel valve and covers, etc. Vacuumed yet again. Still haven't decided what color. I have plenty of time: I need to install the ELT and strobe power pack, then put the aft top skin on before painting. Not sure what all else I did today, but I sure did spend a lot of time in the hangar.
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2006-04-08 |
Hours: 4 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
9-9
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ID#:
895
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Installed the C-661 canopy slider block to the slider frame. Drilled and countersunk the two slide rail parts. Did a bunch of plans studying. Drilled the #40 holes in the C-657 canopy roller track and clamped them into place on the aft decks.
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2006-04-06 |
Hours: 1 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
9-9
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ID#:
896
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Cut C-657 canopy roller tracks |
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Cut the C-657 canopy roller tracks to length. Still need to trim the aft ends per plans.
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2006-04-05 |
Hours: 5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
9-9
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ID#:
897
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Test-bolted the roll bar in place. The aft 1/4" bolts are tough to get in. I took a cresent wrench with some tape on one side to hold the nut with wash RTV'd to the nut, then worked it in place from the aft of the canopy deck. This is a cuss! Checked to see if the roll bar is 90°. This was off slightly on each side, so I had to make some shims to slip underneath the roll bars. Re-bolted them and checked with a drafter's angle and the Smarttool. Looks about as close as Hoover Aircraft Company is going to get it. Installed the WD-643-SS canopy brace by drilling and bolting the hole in the top end to the roll bar, then drilling the bolt holes in the bottom end thru the 7108 rib assembly. Removed the bar, trimmed the excess from the bottom, deburred and reinstalled.
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2006-04-04 |
Hours: 3 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
9-9
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ID#:
899
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Positioned the roll bar and drilled the fore and aft pilot holes each side. Enlarged them to the proper diameter (#12 fore, 1/4" aft), positioned the spacers and drilled them to size thru the roll bar holes. Checked to see if the roll bar is perpendicular to the canopy deck. It is off slightly so I will deal with this tomorrow.
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2006-04-03 |
Hours: 1.75 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
9-9
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ID#:
898
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Shaped the C-668 roll bar spacers |
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Shaped the C-668 roll bar spacers and marked the center lines. Marked and drilled the #40 pilot holes in the canopy decks for the roll bar. Lined up the spacers and drilled them thru the canopy decks.
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2006-03-27 |
Hours: 2.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
8-20
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ID#:
887
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Drilled and clecoed the front deck |
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Drilled and clecoed the front deck ribs, subpanels, panel, etc. First, riveted the 7108A rib, 7108B 7109 angle, plate together and inserted into the 7105A subpanel. It can be done with some patience and creativity. Cannot feasibly cleco this assembly to the firewall per the manual with any real accuracy as there are no pre-punch holes in the firewall or the rib flange to line it up. I marked the rivet line on the forward flange of the 7108A center rib, put the assembly in place, clecoed the left and right 7107 ribs to the firewall. Clecoed the left and right 7105B outboard subpanels. Clecoed the top skin on to line everything up, then clecoed the instrument panel in place. I established the center line of the airplane on the firewall, drew lines from the left and right 7107 rib to firewall rivet holes. The center rib line of rivet holes in the top skin is visibly offset of the center line marked on the firewall. This means that the 7108A center rib web is actually along the centerline, not the forward flange rivet line, so the rivets need to be offset to the right side by about 11/32". Also, I noted by studying the plans that there are six rivets in the center rib to firewall versus only five each on the 7107 ribs to firewall. No mention of this, you just have to notice it on DWG 24, FORWARD FUSELAGE RIB AND SUB-PANEL ASSEMBLY EXPLODED ISOMETRIC VIEW. So, after some studying, I put the top rivet hole about 1/4" above where previously marked, and the bottom rivet hole about 1/4" below where previously marked and evenly spaced the other four rivet holes in between them. I de-clecoed the middle rib from the top skin to move it out of the way, then drilled the top and bottom rivet holes thru the firewall, re-clecoed the rib to the top skin, lined up the rivet line marked on the flange and drilled and clecoed. Put the roll bar on just to see how it would look. Spent some time in the cockpit with my mock-up panel to study how I might like the panel to be laid out and to get a feel for how it will be. Feels great!
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2006-03-26 |
Hours: 3 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
8-20
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ID#:
890
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Made the 721C angles. Deburred and edge-smoothed the 7107 ribs, 7105A and B subpanels. Cleaned and primed everything except the instrument panel and angles clecoed to it.
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2006-03-25 |
Hours: 2.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
8-20
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ID#:
889
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More work on forward fuse |
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The fly-in today was very motivating to say the least! Got to see some nice RV's. Made the 7108B angle, 7109 plate and drilled them to the 7108A center forward fuse rib. Made the 721D angles and the 7108C angle. Deburred everything.
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2006-03-25 |
Hours: 1.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
8-20
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ID#:
888
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Worked on instrument panel |
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Took a break from the agrivating emp fairing and rudder bottom and moved on to the forward fuse. Fluted and drilled the 7103C angles to the panel, then clecoed the 7103B angles to the panel. Be careful of where you flute the 7103C's because the flutes may interfere with platenuts to be added later. I may have to use a corner platenut or mini-platenut at the outboard holes because the flutes are too cloes. Drilled the 746 control bracket to the panel. Heard an RV flight of four report inbound to KCUB for our 3rd Annual Palmetto RV Fly-In today, then heard them buzz overhead (2 miles out from KCUB). Couldn't stand it any longer so I wrapped up and headed out to the Fly-in!
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2006-03-20 |
Hours: 1 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
892
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Trimmed the rest of the emp fairing along the forward portion. The emp fairing fits better now since trimming and my VS/HS cleco holes are not lined up with the VS/HS holes any longer. Will need to fill them in and reposition them.
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2006-03-19 |
Hours: 1.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
891
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Marked trim lines on emp fairing |
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Marked the trim lines on the emp fairing. This took some studying. Trimmed some of the excess off along the VS and HS. I want to "sleep" on it before I trim along the forward part to make sure I get this right. Positioned, drilled and clecoed the left side lower emp fairing strip to the fuse. Got this one in the correct position, using existing rivet locations along the longeron.
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2006-03-18 |
Hours: 1 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
8-18
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ID#:
886
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Drilled/clecoed F-994A-R lower fairing strip on right side |
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Located tne drilled/clecoed the F-994A-R right side lower emp fairing strip. Again, Vans leaves you hanging here about how exactly to get it right. I positioned it as best I could and then drilled the screw holes thru the longerons to #40. After removing the fairing strip I noticed that all those holes are exactly the same offset from fuse skin to longeron rivets along that stretch. I wonder if Vans meant for me to use those rivet holes because the fairing strip could easily be positioned over them perfectly. Now I have screw holes 1/8" forward of skin/longeron rivets. I will use the rivet locations on the left side. A bit of trimming will be required along the top edge to allow for the rubber gasket strip to fit well.
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2006-03-17 |
Hours: 1.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
8-18
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ID#:
885
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Dilly-dallied around some more with the emp fairing. Vans really leaves you hanging here. The drawings just aren't enough to install this thing with confidence. I had drilled the VS/HS screw holes thru the emp fairing the other day so I could get the thing to fit, but when I trim the emp fairing along the HS and VS, the emp fairing fit much better - meaning that my holes are now off a good bit. I think I will have to fill them in with some epoxy so I can relocate them. The fairing does look like it will fit a lot nicer. There is the part around the leading edge of the HS that I am not sure how it supposed to turn out. Just guessing here. I may wait until next week to continue with this so I can view some live examples at our annual RV fly-in Sat. March 25 at KCUB.
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2006-03-16 |
Hours: 2 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
8-17
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ID#:
884
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Installed fuel line from elec. pump to gascolator |
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Detoured from the frustrating emp fairing and installed the gascolator and fuel pump and then shaped and installed the fuel line between them. This took a few tries. Had to cut a few lengths of tube and finally got it right. Went back to the emp fairing but nothing done, just studying what to do next with it.
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2006-03-15 |
Hours: 0.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
8-18
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ID#:
883
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More trimming on the emp fairing |
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Did a little more trial fit and trimming on the aft portion of the emp fairing to get proper clearance of the elevator horns. Got both sides done.
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2006-03-13 |
Hours: 1 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
8-16
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ID#:
881
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More work on the the rudder |
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Per advice from replies on Vansairforce.com discussion group, I adjusted the bearings on the rudder and it fits well, doesn't bind on the VS skins, and hits the rudder stops. Not sure if my luck will hold out once the bottom fiberglass tip is installed. I went ahead and drill and clecoed the rudder stops to the fuse.
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2006-03-12 |
Hours: 1 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
880
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|
Detoured with fore fuse floor foam panels |
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Detoured away from the rudder while waiting on replies to questions I put on Vansairforce.com. Made paper patterns and cut come 3/4" sound proof foam from ACS to put in the fore fuse floor. I am planning on putting these foam panels in with some type of mat over them and the center cabin cover.
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2006-03-11 |
Hours: 5.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
8-16
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ID#:
879
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Worked on getting the VS fitted to the fuse |
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Spent a bunch of time trying to get the VS installed. Measured and clamped many times trying to make sure the VS is perpendicular. Made the F-912D elevator up stop, drilled the bolt holes thru it into the VS rear spar. Drilled and clecoed to the fuse aft deck. Positioned and clamped the forward spar to the F-981 VS attach plate. My VS ended up being positioned aft of the plate instead of forward of it to get the rudder hinges to line up with the straight edge. Also, I couldn't get the angle drill to reach the top line of rivet holes thru the VS attach plate, so I will drill them thru the spar once it is removed. Not sure how much the VS is supposed to be off centered to the left but it looks like the center of the forward tip of the VS is about 1/2" left of the centerline of the aft fuse skin. No directions on how to position the VS forward spar with the 981 attach place, so I centered the spar and plate as best I could. Spent a lot of time making sure this was as close as I could get it. Drilled the F-981 plate to the VS forward spar. Drilled the four bolt holes in the bottom of the rear spar of the VS thru the aft bulkhead. This was difficult as I had to drill the initial #30 pilot holes from inside the fuse with the angle drill. Once done, I enlarged to #21 and then to 3/16". Put bolts in, then mounted the rudder to see how it fits. I had to push the bottom of the rudder aft a little to get the bolt thru the bearing, so some adjustment is required. The rudder swings freely although binds with parts of the VS skin at the extreme left and right positions. Made the rudder stops, drilled the holes and clecoed them to the fuse with the one pre-drilled hole in the fuse. Checked the swing of the rudder. The rudder binds with the VS skins before contacting the rudder stops on both sides and also allows the rudder to come into contact with the elevators' inboard corners, so this is not good. Will seek advice about how to correct this. Spent a lot of time making two nice rudder stops. I hope I didn't waste my time. Long day. Whew!
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2006-03-11 |
Hours: 0.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
|
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Manual Ref:
|
ID#:
877
|
|
Drilled 705 Bulkhead hole for static line |
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Got some advice from the Yahoo RV7A group on where to drill the static line hole thru the 705 bulkhead. Marked the hole, drilled #40, then #30, then #21 and finished the hole at 1/4". Test fitted the static line and it is a snug fit with no movement.
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2006-03-10 |
Hours: 1 |
Category:
Fuselage
|
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Manual Ref:
8-16
|
ID#:
878
|
|
Trimmed bottom end of VS forward spar |
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Trimmed the bottom of the forward spar of the VS per plans, then clamped the VS to the fuse. Took measurements from the HS tips to the top of the VS to check that it is perpendicular. Long day at work, so a short day in the shop. Looks cool with the VS clamped on!
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2006-03-09 |
Hours: 3.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
|
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Manual Ref:
8-16
|
ID#:
875
|
|
Installed trim cable and other stuff |
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Installed the trim cable. It was a challenge to get it thru the HS spar hole then the lightening hole and thru the elevator but it can be done. You have to pull more cable than you need thru the HS spar hole then you have enough play in it to curl it thru the lightening hole in the HS. Takes a little finess. Hooked the clevis up to the trim tab. I started with the hex nut half way on the trim cable threads, checked up and down angles, then adjusted as necessary, ending up with the hex nut about 3/4 towards to aft end of the cable threads. It seems to be working great. I will wait before riveting the nut and plate to the cover plate for when I am sure it is properly adjusted. Light bulb went off in my head on how to solve a problem I created earlier with getting the trim cable to pass thru the fuel valve cover via a snap bushing. I cut from the bottom of the hole in the valve cover to the bottom edge with a mini hacksaw, bent the edges slightly so they will push flush against the center cabin cover aft flange once it is installed. This way I can work the cable into the hole and remove it if/when necessary. I also cut the snap bushing with the mini hacksaw so that it can be slipped on and off if need be.
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2006-03-08 |
Hours: 0.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
876
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Cut 2" cabin heat hole in firewall |
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Borrowed a Greenlee hole punch kit from the EAA242 chapter to cut the 2" hole in the firewall for the cabin heat. Since the firewall is fairly thin steel, the hole cutter left raised edges along portions of the finished hole. I used a hammer and bucking bar and gently tapped the edges of the hole even, then deburred and smoothed the edges. Overall, the Greenlee cutter worked great, but had I to do it again, I would have used a sheet of .063 alclad on the forward side of the fuse (where the ratched was used) to allow the cutter to cut through cleaner. The cutter was a nominal 1.5" conduit die/blade set but is actually 2".
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2006-03-08 |
Hours: 3 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
8-16
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ID#:
874
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Installed the HS on the fuse |
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Drilled and bolted the HS to the fuse. Made measurements from the HS tips to like points on each side of the firewall to make sure the HS is perpendicular to the fuse. Pinned the elevators in place and hooked up the pushrods. Really cool to operator the control stick now! Moved on to dealing with my elevator TE dilemma. I clamped the counterbalances to the HS tips and stretched a line from each outboard corner of the TEs of the elevators. Did this by making the twine grip at the TE corners between the top skin and the wedge and tied each end off in a rivet hole. The line, stretch nice and tight, revealed that the right elevator has twist; correct at the outboard end and twisting upward towards the inboard to about 3/8". The left elevator and trim tab TE rides the line very nicely. So I think i will not mess with this until I fly it and see if the twist causes any noticeable and/or undesirable flight characterists.
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2006-03-07 |
Hours: 1 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
8-16
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ID#:
873
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Assembled the F-790 & F-989 pushrods |
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Marked the ends of the pushrods for the rivets, inserted the rod ends and drilled, clecoed and riveted as I went. Put the F-989 pushrod in the fuse. It was hard to get in but it can be done without the rod ends on. Just be careful.
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2006-03-06 |
Hours: 1.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
8-16
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ID#:
872
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Started working on F-790 & F-989 pushrods |
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Moved on while waiting to solve the elevator TE alignment dilemma and worked on the F-790 and F-989 pushrods. Cut them both to length, cleaned and primed them and the VA-101 rod ends that go on the larger F-790 tube. Talked with Scott at Vans about the misaligned TE on the elevators as they are currently mounted on the HS. He suggested three alternatives: 1) leave as is, if any undesirable flight characterists, then use the second alternative. He said this happens frequently to varying degrees and may not be that noticeable in flight. 2) Align the TEs, reposition elevator horn bolt holes as required and accept the downward position of the left elevator counterbalance or the upward position of the right one. 3) Removed the elevators, find where any twist is that is causing the misalignment, worked the twist out by using more rivets, which will result in the elevator having pre-loaded stresses. I am inclined to choose between options one and two. Will talk with my Tech Advisor more about this.
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2006-03-05 |
Hours: 1 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
8-16
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ID#:
870
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Looking for answers for uneven elevator TE as mounted on HS assembly |
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Went down to KCUB to see if I could find some help and answers about my problem with the uneven elevator TEs as they are mounted on the HS. My tech advisor was about to depart for some formation flying, but did recommend I call Vans tomorrow. He suggested that it is possible that Vans will say to leave as is. We shall see.
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2006-03-04 |
Hours: 3.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
869
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Another attempt at cutting cabin heat hole in firewall, moved on to HS/elevators |
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Went and bought a metal/wood 2" hole saw from Lowes to try and cut the hole in the firewall for the cabin heat. No luck. I am going to have to get a hole punch die or cut it with the reamer. Anyway, I moved on to working on the emp, getting the HS and elevators ready to mount on the fuse. Dusted off the HS and elevators and placed them on the work table, clamped the elevator counterbalances even with the HS with Irwin Quickgrip clamps. They are great to have in the hangar. My right elevator horn was the aft-most so, per plans, I drilled that pilot hole first. I used a piece of 5/8" thick aluminum bar with a piece of .025 alclad as the spacer to make sure the two elevator holes were clamped tight and parallel before drilling the #30 pilot hole thru the right elevator horn, thru the spacer, then drilling thru the left horn. I enlarged each hole to #12 for the AN3 bolt, then drilled the upper holes for the AN4 bolt using a bushing like the emp plans calls for. After installing both bolts to see how it fit, I clamped a long Al angle to the right elevator trailing edge. It extends over to the left elevator and hangs about 3/8" to 1/2" above the left trailing edge, so the elevators are not aligned. Will have to check into why this is so. Both elevators' counterbalances are clamped even with the HS, so this is not an elevator horn thing. The right elevator trailing edge is simply swept higher than the left.
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2006-03-03 |
Hours: 1 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
868
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Enlarged firewall holes for throttle, mixture, carb heat and gear access |
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Went ahead and enlarged the holes in the firewall for the throttle, mixture, and carb heat cables and the access for the nose gear bolt. Started on the 2" hole for the cabin heat, but did not have any luck getting it done. I dulled my fly cutter, tried my 2" hole saw, which is reall for wood, with no success. The firewall just get frying hot even with Boelube.
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2006-02-26 |
Hours: 4 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
8-15
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ID#:
867
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Finished drilling the wing root fairings |
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Got both wing root fairings drilled, deburred, dimpled and primed. Primed some other parts as well.
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2006-02-24 |
Hours: 2 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
8-15
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ID#:
866
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Drilled and clecoed the right wing gap fairing |
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Drilled and clecoed the right wing gap fairing. Marked the edge alont the fuse to 3/16" to cut later for the necessary clearance for the gasket.
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2006-02-23 |
Hours: 3.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
8-15
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ID#:
865
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Finished installing the flap pushrods |
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Got to work on the left side flap pushrod installation. I traced the holes from the right side and marked the left side to make it easier once I had the initial 1/2" holes drilled. Don't forget to reverse the pattern! This worked really well. Got the notch cut and ran of the flaps up and down a zillion times to get them right. I had some scraping as the flaps retracted and the rod end bearing jamb nut entered the fuse. The lower jamb nut was hitting the fuse skin. Then I realized that I had not put the washers on the rod end bearing that attaches to the flap. Once the washers were installed the flaps retracted cleanly. Don't know how long the flap motor will last. I sure as heck gave it a workout today! I ended up cutting the VA-256 flap rods to 5.25" like Mike Schipper did and this worked great. With the flap weldment in the full retracted position, you push the flap up as far as it will go, then insert the bolt to connect the rod end bearing to the flap weldment clevis end. The flap pushrod is already connected to the flap itself before doing this. This sets the travel limit automatically. If the flap weldment is in the flaps up position and the flap is in its fully retracted position, then the flap pushrod must be adjusted to fit. That's all there is to it! Hope this made sense - I'm tired. Buenos noches!
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2006-02-22 |
Hours: 2.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
8-15
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ID#:
864
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Installed the right wing VA-256 flap pushrod |
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Cut the big hole in the fuse for the VA-256 flap pushrod. Started by drilling 1/2" holes in the fuse side skin and bottom skin. Then enlarging the holes to form the completed notch, checking the movement of the flap pushrod then modifying the hole until I got it right.
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2006-02-22 |
Hours: 2 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
8-15
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ID#:
863
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Finished drilling the 996A attach brackets |
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Finished drilling the 996A attach brackets by drilling the 1/4" hole thru the 996A and 905 fuel tank attach brackets. Had to start drilling with the angle drill attachment; drilled a #40 pilot hole from the aft side of the brackets. Once done, I drilled progressively larger holes from the forward side until I reach the 1/4" hole. Removed the 996A brackets and then cut the notches per plans
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2006-02-21 |
Hours: 2.25 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
8-15
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ID#:
862
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Began installing F-996A fuel tank attach brackets |
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Began by bending the 996A brackets to about 2.7°, then trial fitting each on until the short leg rests flush against the fuse when clamped to the 905 tank attach bracket. Got the left after only a few blows with the dead blow mallet in the table vice. The right one for some reason took a while to get just right. I bent the brackets using a set up I saw on another builder's site, using a piece of wood with one corner edge radiused off at about 1/4" and the remainder of that edge cut off at about 5° to allow the bracket leg to be able to bend. A scrap piece of 3/16" bar under the short leg of the bracket to give the table vice something to grip onto beside just the attach bracket leg. You have to get rather violent with the dead blow hammer and the piece of wood takes a beating as it slips in the table vice. If you don't see wood chips, you ain't hitting it hard enough. :) Anyway, after several trial fits and some medival behavior with the dead blow hammer, one should get these things to fit just fine. Next I marked the short leg of the brackets with the 3/8" line where the top bolt hole goes in the fuse, clamped the bracket to the 905 bracket and checked from inside the fuse to assure the 3/8" line was centered in the hole. I drilled that hole, put a bolt in and then drilled the bottom hole.
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2006-02-19 |
Hours: 4.25 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
8-14
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ID#:
861
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Spent a few hours this morning making and installing the 0.156" bushings in the flap brackets on the wings only to find some Vans provided in the hardware tray containing the flap bolts, washers, nuts and cotter pins. Jeez! Anyway, I spent another hour removing my fresh made bushings and installed the Vans ones because they have less play when the bolt is inserted. I'll save mine incase I need a replacement someday. I then installed the flaps and they seem to fit just fine. Called it quits so I can go watch NASCAR.
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2006-02-18 |
Hours: 4 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
8-14
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ID#:
860
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Drilled the aft wing spar to fuse bolt holes |
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Two fellow EAA-242'ers arrived this morning to help me set the wing incident and drill the aft wing spar to fuse bolt holes. This would have been nerve racking without the help of our local Tech Advisor, Ken Harrill, and Steve Richardson. We leveled the plane and checked it several times. Checked the sweep and it looked fine. Measured from wing tip to aft fuse. Was off about 1/8", so we were good there. Worked on setting the wing incident and checked them several times before finally drilling #40 pilot holes. After putting clecoes in, we stopped and went to eat BBQ for lunch. After lunch I went ahead and drilled the holes to 5/16", working in increments. I drilled each holes with a progression of about six or eight drills until I got to the 5/16" bit. I put AN5 bolts in the holes to check the fit. They are very tight and required me to turn the bolt heads with ratchet wrench while pushing them in. I had put some Boelube on the grip of the bolts before inserting them. Later this evening, I removed all the plumb bobs and sweep line, and moved on to installing the ailerons and hooking up the push tubes to the control sticks. Really cool to work the controls back and forth and see the ailerons move up and down. Time to call it a night. Many thanks to Ken and Steve for helping to get me over this hurdle!
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2006-02-17 |
Hours: 1.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
859
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Finished riveting the aft top skin |
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Riveted the aft top skin to the 708 bulkhead and inserted and riveted the J-stringers.
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2006-02-16 |
Hours: 1.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
858
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Riveted aft top fuse skin |
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Riveted the aft top skin to the fuse. Have all top skin to side skin rivets and the top skin to 709 bulkhead rivets. Still need to rivet the J-stringers and 708 bulkhead/top skin rivets. Not sure I want to rivet the J-stringers in yet as they are likely to get in the way while working inside the fuse at the 706 bulkhead.
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2006-02-09 |
Hours: 0.75 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
8-14
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ID#:
857
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Got the right wing attached to the fuse |
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Have not heard back from Vans, but decided to try and use a shoe horn, or rather "wing horn" to get the wing rear spar to slip in between the center bars. I took a piece of .016 alclad and wedged it between the aft side of the wing rear spar and the aft center bar. Went about working the wing in by gently pushing from the outboard end of the wing while gently working the wing up and down. This took quite some time but I eventually got it close enough to set the wing height/angle with a support and then use the steel pins with lube on them to get final alignment of the spar holes. Then inserted the 1/4" bolts. Done.
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2006-02-09 |
Hours: 0.25 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
8-14
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ID#:
856
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Hit snag trying to install right wing |
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Tried to install the right wing for the first time this morning and hit a little snag. The aft spar of the wing sit about 1/16" further aft or the center bars are not lined up properly. I will contact Vans concerning this. It looks like I need to spread the two center bars enough to allow the aft wing spar to fit inbetween them. More later.
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2006-02-06 |
Hours: 1.75 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
8-14
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ID#:
855
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Getting the right wing ready to fit into the fuse |
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Removed the aileron from the right wing and stored it. Cleaned the wing up nice to get off all the dust and bug stuff that has collected over the past many months of sitting up. Trimmed the right side aft spar center section bars from 1/16" at the top tapering to zero at the bottom, same as the left side. Got the edges cleaned up nice and smooth. Marked the 3" lines for the bottom screw holes on the wing inboard bottom skin per manual. Still need to bevel the edges of the wing spar where they insert into the fuse slot to make insertion easier.
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2006-02-05 |
Hours: 2 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
8-14
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ID#:
854
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Left wing attached to fuse |
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Got the left wing installed with temporary bolts from Lowe's. I ground the threads off of two of the 7/16"x4" bolts to make some tapered bolts for initially lining up the holes. I got the holes very close and then gently tapped the lubricated tapered "pins" in with a mallet. Before installing the wing, I buttered up the wing spar with Boelube. This made inserting it into the fuse ten times easier. Once I had the two tapered pins in, I tapped in two more 7/16" lubed bolts and then four 1/4" bolts, lubed as well. You need to keep the wing supported or it will tip over. I lined the wing/spar holes up by moving the outboard stool support towards the inboard until the wing lifted enough so the holes lined up. Before installing the wing I removed about 1/16" off the aft center spar. Unless the wing needs to be adjusted aftward much, this should be enough. Now on to the right wing.
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2006-02-04 |
Hours: 0.75 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
8-14
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ID#:
853
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Placed the left wing on the roller stool supports and trial fitted |
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My friend Tommy dropped by today so I immediately took advantage of him and tasked him to help me lift one of the wings and lie it on my two roller stools so I can begin fitting it to the fuse. The stools work great. With one stool I took the original seat off and screwed a 18"x24"x1/2" piece of plywood in its place. Then secured some carpet foam and two strips of thick foam on each end of the plywood to support the wing better than with just the original seat. This modified stool will go under the outboard end of the wing while the unmodified stool is under the inboard end temporarily until the wing spar is inserted into the fuse slot. We got the wing inserted about half way before I decided to remove it. It is very close tolerance so I will need some Boelube or something to help get the wing installed. Also need to trim the aft spar as indicted in SECTION G-G, DWG 38. There is no dimension, so I measured the drawing. Looks to be about 1/8" at the top. I plan on cutting 1/16" at the top tapering down to zero at the bottom.
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2006-02-02 |
Hours: 1.25 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
8-14
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ID#:
852
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Started getting wings ready to fit to fuse |
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Removed the aileron from the left wing and stored it. Beveled the hard corners off of the wing spar where it will contact the fuse bulkhead to keep the spar from gouging anything as it is inserted into the fuse. Rigged up one of my adjustable stools with a larger "seat" to hold the wing once it is lying flat. I have two stools with rollers so I can manuever the wing as needed and adjust the height as well.
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2006-01-10 |
Hours: 2.25 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
842
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Installed static kit components |
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I cut lengths of the 1/4" OD tube and fitted them onto the plastic tee. I took the advice of another builder and dipped the tubes in boiling water to make it easier to slide onto the tee. Each piece of tube needed five or six tries to get them on all the way. Once the pieces of tube were on the tee, I put the hole thing into the boiling water for about 30 secs. to allow the assembly to relax the stress in the tubes and make a nice tight fit. Next I installed onto the bulkhead with a tie wrap and inserted the flex tubing. I cut a length of 1/4" ID rigid tube (from ACS) and will use that to connect the line going to the panel.
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2006-01-02 |
Hours: 2 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
837
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More aileron manual trim kit work |
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Finished modifying the UHMW block by notching one side per plans for the cotter pin, then cutting thru the notch on the bandsaw. Drilled the bolt hole in the two weldments for the AN3 bolt. Drilled the 1/16" hole in the weldment for the cotter pin. Made the 10? bend in the handle weldment and the two steel pieces.
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2006-01-01 |
Hours: 2.75 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
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ID#:
836
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Worked on the aileron manual trim kit |
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Started assembling the aileron manual trim kit. Did most of the modifying on the UHMW block, drilling the bolt/screw holes and beveling one corner per plans. Countersunk the #12 screw hole to accept the dimple from the brace.Cut the brace to size and drilled all bolt holes and rivet holes, enlarged the center hole to 9/16". I dimpled the #12 screw hole; the directions said to countersink, but I have a #10 dimple die set, so I dimpled it on the C-Frame to get a good dimple.
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2005-12-31 |
Hours: 3 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
8-15
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ID#:
835
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More brake pedal/rudder weldment work, other misc. |
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Installed the brake pedals on the rudder weldment. For some reason, the right side pedals are about 1/4" off of being even with each other. I may replace one of the side brackets so I can get this closer. Will check with tech advisor on this. Installed the brake/rudder assembly in the fuse to see how it looks. Also riveted the center support bracket to the firewall stiffener angle. Installed the rudder cables to see how those fit. Had to remove several snap bushings because the cable end would not go thru. Need to use SB-625-8's and not 7's! Had to surgically remove two each side at the aft baggage side panel that is riveted in place. Used a lenght of stiff hanger wire with a hook bent in one end to pull the rudder cables thru.
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2005-12-30 |
Hours: 2.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
8-15
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ID#:
834
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Worked on brake pedals and rudder weldments |
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Bolted the brake pedals to the rudder pedal weldments and drilled the F-6117A brake pedal side plates for the brake cylinders. I lined up the rudder pedals on the left side and then clamped a bar to the two brake pedals tops to align them and used a #12 threaded drill bit (because it is short) to scribe the drill mark. I had marked the vertical center line in the side plates earlier, so the drill bit scribe gave me the exact location to drill. Took everything apart and painted the pedals.
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2005-12-28 |
Hours: 3.5 |
Category:
Fuselage
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Manual Ref:
8-15
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ID#:
833
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Installed brake lines and started static kit |
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Installed the brake lines. They ain't pretty but I think they'll do. Haven't EZ Turn'd any fittings yet because I am not sure if I'll have to undo anything yet. Started installing the static line kit. Riveted the MK-319-BS rivets into the fuse skins and removed the mandrells by drilling with a 1/16" bit and Boelube to drill out the mandrells. The "static ports" are nice and flush with the side skins. put the tube in place around the bulkhead and fastened with tie wraps. I put the tie wrap heads on the aft side of the bulkhead and clipped the excess with wire cutters. The stiff 1/4" tubing is really difficult to get on the tee fitting and it is hard to insert the flexible tubing inside the 1/4" tube. Not sure how to deal with this. Probably will get some flexible 1/4" ID tube to use to jo | | | | |
