Van's Aircraft RV-9A experimental aircraft kitplane

Mike Hoover's Van's RV-9A
Aircraft Construction Log

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Don Alexander - 9A
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Andy Karmy - 9A
www.n2prise.org - 9A
Paul Eastham's - 9A
Bill's Aircraft Factory - 9
Vern Little - 9A

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Official time building my Vans RV-9A: 2224.34 hours.


Category

Total Records

Total Hours

Empennage

79

193.7

Wing

274

607.5

Fuselage

366

912.4

Firewall Forward

105

382.5

Finish

38

86.0

Supplies

0

0.0

Tools

4

0.0

Journal

50

33.2

Reference Materials

0

0.0

Flight Instruments

4

0.0

Miscellaneous

0

0.0

Workshop

0

0.0

Electrical

2

9.0

Hangar

0

0.0

TOTALS:

922

2224.3

Van's Aircraft RV-9A experimental aircraft kitplane

7 most recent log entries:

2014-07-05 Hours: 4 Category: Electrical Manual Ref: ID#: 1197
Had to degrease my flap motor
After 89 tach hours, my flap motor succumbed to the well documented grease problem that has plagued many RV'ers. At least, I expect that is the problem. Ironically, I had just signed off on the annual condition inspection. I cannot image that is anything but coincidence. I was on the ground thankfully when I discovered the issue. I was retracting my flaps while and there was no response when I pushed the switch up (or down). The next day, I tried again and the flaps went up but when I tried to put them down, the switch did nothing. I put a little pressure on one of the flaps as I pushed the switch down and the flaps extended. And went back up when I tried to retracted them. The next day, they worked without a problem. I tried them several different times that day and they worked fine. Geez! I decided not to ignore the problem and did some research on VansAirforce.net and found the Vans SB regarding the flaky flap issue. I removed the flap from the airplane and disassembled. I found a lot of grease in the motor. It had worked half way through the housing but had not yet gotten to the brushes. I cleaned it up nicely, reassembled and reinstalled. It seems to work fine. We shall see. The hex tool required is a 7/64th. I used laquer thinner sparingly and some q-tips to clean out the grease. I used strands of wire to hold the brushes back while reinstalling the brush horseshoe back onto the armature. Here is the link to Vans SB about the Flaky Flap Motor. Google Pittman 9234S004-R1 Lo-Cog 12VDC motor to find the motor and data sheet.
Photos:
Plenty of grease half way up the magnets in the housing.
Grease all over the amateur and end cap.
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2014-04-14 Hours: 2 Category: Firewall Forward Manual Ref: ID#: 1196
Added air dam to number one cylinder
I had removed the previously riveted air dams from in front of numbers one and two cylinders as they were causing high temps. Number one is coolest by about 20 degrees so I recently added some foil tape and tested. The final amount added resulted in cylinder one matching two and three, with number four now coolest by about six degrees. I made an air dam out of some .040 and attached it to the baffling using three of the rivets holes that existed in the horizontal flange that supports the ramp. I will have to fly again to see if this air dam has the same effect as the foil of the same profile.
Photos:
The new air dam attached to the baffle in front of cylinder one.
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2014-01-18 Hours: 5 Category: Finish Manual Ref: ID#: 1195
Installed upper and lower main gear intersection fairings
Installed the RVBits upper and lower main gear intersection fairings. The lower ones were easy to locate and drill. The upper one fit nicely but finding places to drill for screws is limited. I used trail and error to find the hole under the foreward bottom skin. Missed by just 1/8" on my first try drilling and hit the steel plate that is on the gear leg weldment. Then figured a way to calculate and draw a line on the bottom skin that was approx. 1/4" forward of the edge of the steel plate on the gear leg weldment. It is a line four and a half rivets outboard of the floor stiffener rivet along the span wise row of rivets in the bottom skin and foreword center section flange. I drew a line 45 degrees off that line and this approximates a line about 1/4" forward and parallel to the fore edge of the steel plate on the gear leg weldment. With the intersection fairing held in place, the "sweet spot" for drilling is apparent. The other two screws were, one in the wing root fairing and one aft of the center section under the outboard seat bay. Had to use a rivnut there. I used #6 screws with tinnerman washers for my intersection fairings.
Photos:
The foreward inboard screw location in the upper intersection fairing.
The lower intersection fairing on the left side installed. Pretty nice fit!
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2014-01-13 Hours: 4 Category: Journal Manual Ref: ID#: 1194
Back to work on the wheel pants
First, thanks a bunch Scott for volunteering your afternoon to help me get started on my main wheel pants. I have put this off long enough. We got the wheel pants lined up and clecoed. That was the hard part. Long afternoon!
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2013-08-16 Hours: 0 Category: Journal Manual Ref: ID#: 1192
RivetSizer iPhone App is finally a reality!
I finally got my RivetSizer iPhone app up and running. I was approved and went live on the App Store a couple of days ago. It calculates the rivet length as the user inputs metal thicknesses. You can choose which rivet diameter you need too. It is meant for metal airplane builders so RV builders may enjoy it. It is meant to be quick, and I think I have accomplished this. It was a bucket list item to actually learn how to program an iPhone app. Visit the app store and search rivet sizer. Or click this link: RivetSizer on the app store. or visit the blog I set up for it at RivetSizer.com.
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2013-04-01 Hours: 0 Category: Journal Manual Ref: ID#: 1193
Photo of my panel
I never uploaded a photo of my finished and flying panel, so here it is!
Photos:
My finished panel. This was taken in April 1, 2013.
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2012-08-26 Hours: 0.3 Category: Journal Manual Ref: ID#: 1190
First flight of N194MH
Had my first flight today! How exciting. The most surreal feeling I have ever had. It was a perfect evening flight with no surprises. Thanks James Clark for handling my transition training. Thanks Ken Jefferson for allowing us to use your RV-9A for the training. Thanks to Tom Roberts and Ken Harrill for all the help these many years during my build. Thanks to all the RV builders and everyone else at KCUB for all your help and encouragement! It was a great day! James agreed to manage the first flight and we made a plan and stuck to it. After several sessions of transition training, the last being a 1.4 hour session today, and afterward we debriefed, James said, "Go get your plane ready." I had no idea that today would be the day. James flew chase with my wife, Pam, aboard his RV-6. Tom handle ground radio; Ken Harrill was there as Technical Advisor; Steve Richardson was kind enough to leave dinner early from across town to hurry to KCUB to be videographer. I look forward to seeing the video. I taxied out to the runway, did my run-up and all the checks, and departed for three laps around the pattern at 1600 ft. No surprise on the take off roll, nor during the flight. The landing was smooth, perhaps one of my best, and I felt no shimmy. The landing roll was smooth. Taxied back to the hangar and shut 4MH down. Pam brought out the champagne and we passed the bottle around to celebrate one of the greatest days of my life. Thanks to everyone who was there!
Photos:
Run-up prior to first flight. Adrenaline was flowing!
First flight of N194MH in the evening of Sunday, August 26, 2012.
James and I celebrating with a bottle of bubbly. Thanks James!
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12 Long, Long, Long Years Ago Today:

2005-12-15 Hours: 1.5 Category: Wing Manual Ref: 8-15 ID#: 826
Installed wing tip lens nutplates
My #33 drill came in from ACS so I went ahead and drilled out the nutplates for the pop rivets and installed them on the wing tips. I screwed the lenses on to see how they fit. Not exactly happy with the results. I may work some Super Fill or epoxy in the gaps to make them look/fit better.

2005-12-15 Hours: 2 Category: Fuselage Manual Ref: 8-15 ID#: 825
Started installing fuel lines in forward fuse
Starting installing the fuel lines in the forward fuse. Seems like it will be easier to install before the wings are attached, however, after having done them, it might be better to wait. It wasn't as hard as I was trying to make it. After scratching my head for a long time, cursing a bit, and absolutely refusing to remove the gear weldment I figured it out! I cut 33" length of tube, straigtened it out and inserted the end in the inboard cover support snap bushing, pushed it thru the next one and thru the gear weldment's middle lightening hole. Then as a pulled with one hand from between the cover supports, I pulled with my other hand and made a "pulling bend" towards the exit hole in the gear web/skin. You can do this in one motion. Once I had about 5" outside the fuse, I went back in and worked my angles to about 45° and made sure the fuel line does not contact the weldment web. I put the grommet on from the outside and taped some blue masking tape on the end in hopes that it will remind me to put the fitting nut and sleeve on before flaring the tube. The reasone I say it might be easier with the wings in place is that you can pull the fuel line up to the wing tank fitting. The way I have done it, I will have to adjust the fuel line to make way for installing the wing. It took a long time to figure out, but I could do it again in two minutes!
Photos:
Pulling the fuel line thru the gear weldment and towards the hole.
The fuel line in place, showing path thru weldment.
Another view from above showing fuel line exit thru gear web/skin.
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13 Long, Long, Long Years Ago Today:

2004-12-15 Hours: 2 Category: Wing Manual Ref: 7-16 ID#: 533
Drilled and clecoed the left wing tip to the wing
Fitted the left wing tip into place on the wing and drilled and clecoed. Great attention needs to be paid on making sure the aileron and wing tip trailing edges are align in the proper aileron neutral position. You cannot simply clamp them toegether and go to work drilling and clecoing. I ended up with the tip trailing edge about 1/2" lower (not more aft) than the aileron. So I removed the bottom clecoes, realigned the tip with the aileron and redrilled them with #30 and clecoed along the way. Removed the clamp from the aileron/wing tip trailing edge and yet again the tip is 3/8" lower than the aileron. I will repeat this procedure with the top holes tomorrow, making sure the aileron and wing tip trailing edges are aligned and do not move. The problem is that the aileron, although in neutral position, has about 1/4" play in it, so it needs to be securely held while working with the wing tip. This is probably why Van's suggests in the manual that a helper is useful here.
Photos:
Drilling and clecoing the top of the wing tip while holding it snuggly in place.
Drilling and clecoing the bottom of the wing tip.
The clamps holding the aileron and tip TE's in alignment is not adequate!

2004-12-15 Hours: 1.5 Category: Wing Manual Ref: 7-16 ID#: 532
Prepped the left wing tip for installation
Marked the cut lines for the aft part of the wing tip flanges to the trailing edge with the reinforment strip clamped into place as a guide. Trimmed the top and bottom areas per plans so the tip flanges will clear the aileron attach bracket and the aileron itself. More will be trimmed once the tip is installed properly to get 1/4" clearance between the tip and the aileron. Had to trim some of the tip flange where the wing's J-strip extends beyond the outboard rib just slightly. Test fitted several times to get the tip to fit properly, trimming the tip flange where necessary to get it to fit nicely.
Photos:
Marking the initial aft cut lines with the reinforcement strip clamped on.
Cutting away the fiberglass with the dremel drill. I suggest wearing a mask!
The top of the wing tip almost finished. Need to trim the bottom and TE.
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